I've come into an interesting predicament over the past week and since early yesterday my mind has been racing to the point that I physically felt it. I haven't been hungry in a few days and I've just kind of been out of it. I knew that I needed to get to the water ASAP. I finally got away from work and another responsibility to make it to the beach and got about a 2 hour session in. The waves weren't great and the board I'm riding is a POS, but it still felt amazing. I'm still thinking about things but I don't feel as tense and I feel like **** is going to work out. I know surfing relaxes me, but I've never had anything getting to me this badly since I started surfing, and it helps knowing that I have a way to clear my mind and get back to where I need to be.
i feel ya... getting in tuned with nature is extremely grounding. there is no better way to do this than surfing in my opinion. I live in a 2 dimensional computer world for the majority of my daily hours, the escape is essential for me too.
surfing helps me calm down when i've had a rough day at school or anything else that goes on that day.
im a banker so sitting in an office all day from 9-5 listening to retards complain about all there money gets annoying too, as soon as 5 o clock rolls around im in my boardshorts headin to the coast....btw i took yalls advice and ordered the lost 5 fin shark, i had to goto ocean isle to get it but this guy is light as a feather, thick enough for me, and we'll let ya know how it rips, im goin to garden city for the weekend with no surf restrictions hopefully it won't be flat as balls and can get some good practice in on it! super stoked
it was good this morning down at crystal. I think we had some shest high sets roll in but they didnt last long. thats what i love about being a grom is we dont have to work. thats why when i have to get a job it'll be teaching kids to surf.
nss no surf syndrome.....people have equated surfing to being addicted to heroine...you need that release of chemicals...and when you don't u get pissy...haha...my wife hates when it goes flat....which is 90 percent of the time i usually take that aggression out on her vagina lol...dont delete me
surfing relaxes me so much i not only surf off work. but, when i am at work i drive boats through the surf! thank God for swell.....
I too feel like surfing is an excuse to get away from the every day grind of work and life in general. It is good to get out in the water and ease the mind for a while. Here lately though, I am finding myself getting ticked with fellow surfers. The lineups are getting more and more crowded and each wave turns into a paddle battle with about 3 to 4 others taking off on the same wave and in the direction. Not to mention the swimmers and waders that seem to be drawn to the same spot that you want to be. Lets all hope that Fall comes quicker this year, bringing nice swells and smaller crowds.
thats why i hate the summer is due to the tourists that they dont know to swim in the swim zone and they just swim in the surf zone and then they get pissed cause you hit them by accident. also that during the summer all the good waves always seem to be in the swim zone and not the surf zone when there are no swimmers in the swim zone and they're all in the surf zone which sucks.
