Hi there! This is my first post on the forums I have a question pertaining to the bigger waves. I've been surfing for a few months and i can ride foamies pretty confidently. However, when i attempt to tackle a large wave my board always nose dives before i can get to my feet. I am surfing in the Cocoa Beach Florida area on a 8'8 longboard. Any tips would be great!! Thanks again!
http://www.surfsimply.com/podcast/ Watch these Don't ditch the Foamy, yet... David is right about practice but I bet you aren't to far forward on your board. Watch the podcasts and you'll see what I mean. Lot's of good info on them.
I just wanted to thank CBSCREWBY for the awesome link. I have surfed in Nosara, but was unaware of the SurfSimply folks. The mini-lecture that the guy gives on taking off on waves is fantastic. Watching that would have saved me a whole lot of trial and error along the way! I liked it so much I posted it on my Facebook page! Mahalo!!
Adjust your paddle angle so your not at the bottom of the wave trying to get to your feet. Stand up as you get picked up in the direction the open face is go, especially if the drop in is going to be a little late.
Just keep practicing. Go out in all conditions (except huge). Paddle as hard as you can... Just remember, everybody struggled at first. It takes time to get "good"... If you stick with it you will find youself getting better and better.
question: on an 8'8" is it possible he maybe too far inside and pearling because he's catching the wave too late? Pearling?
Agreed, been surfing for 10+ years and still found tons of good info and reminders of some bad habits I've developed. Good call, CBSCREWBY.
Go for the line not straight. Big waves have walls. Start paddling sideways w the wave not straight in tonthe beach. If ur just beginning bottom turns are probably alittle out of ur skill range no offense. Just practice bo but dont keep doing the same thing if its not working. N screw that nonsense about get rid of ur foam board. U can catch more waves than anybody if u swim strong. Check out jamie obrien surfing pipe on a 25 dollar foam board. Back door switch
On smaller waves, paddle on an angle in the direction you'll be going. Also, paddle harder and earlier. The hardest thing for me to figure out when i started is how hard you really need to paddle to catch the wave at the ideal time. Most beginners stay way too far back when they are first starting out. If your digging the nose, your probably closer to the sweet spot than most beginners.
Thank you to everyone for all of the help! Those videos were great. I feel like I'm probably not taking the wave a an angle and just paddling in towards shore. I'll give everything you guys said a shot! Thanks again!
Thats what were here for man. For those of us who love the sport we enjoy to watch ppl learn. Bot only cuz they eat **** n its funny but more importantly another person is getting into touch w the gods n their spirit. Juat remember if ur patient ur wave will come. Straight to u. U ahldnt have to cut anyone off ur stress cuz i started paddling towarda what u thought was a peak n see a set roll in right where u just were. Dont lose hope n remember y u started. Cuz its fun. The second u stop having fun n start getting pissed just take a break
Nothing to tell you but to keep surfing having fun, because you eventually adapt to avoid nose diving and any other problem you're gonna get. Its just natural! It will all click eventually and you'll get that stoke to get even better, and better, and bigger and badder
Yeah man stick with it, the Surf Simply videos are very good, I remember watching those last year when I was just beginning. Should probably watch them again. The biggest reason I kept nose-diving was because I was trying to catch the wave too far in, it was too steep and I would just pearl over and over until I realized I could catch the wave earlier (especially on a longboard). So it might not necessarily be your position on the board, but rather where you are trying to catch the wave. Just a thought.
You should be able to swim for at least an hour, hold your breath for at least a minute and a half, and be able to paddle for hours on end without pausing.You need a board suitable for the conditions, generally longer, narrower, with a rounded pin or pintail, the proper wetsuit, a strong leash. surfboard rental Gold Coast
That's my main focus is an angled take off and catching the wave earlier. Thanks again everyone! this website is great!!!
Man, I wrote a long post but it disappeared.the gist of it was that I stopped pearling when I started to shift my weight to back foot when taking the drop. I also have a soft top longboard. But on big days, I take out the short board.
