Following threads on Swellinfo is great... but having a fun session on a sunny day brings us all back to center. Who got a few good ones yesterday?
yesterday was just fantastic. A real fall swell - NE wind swell with offshore conditions all day. The kind of day that reminds me that my local break can be as fun on its day as places you travel a long ways to get to. I'm goofy, and managed to get deep into some lefts. Thats more than enough to get me smiling for the rest of the day. The sun came out right as i was suiting up. Six or so of us (including mr. swellinfo himself) on a spot that was working. So stoked.
I'm definitely back to center. Tuesday late afternoon was even better. the eastiliness of the swell and high tide woke up some sand bars that are hardly ever surfable. and i got to try my new 3/2 out.
Was definitely surprised. Didn't expect to be as good as it was. Nobody owed me anything, I didn't see any baby wipes or turds. I didn't have to knock anyone off their board for dropping in, I didn't debate on the best place to stay in Puerto Rico or debate if it is OK to take a surfboard on the bus. I just Stayed Above the Weather and surfed.
"score" might be a stretch but I got a few. VB was decent in the waist-stomach range most of the day. I rarely say this... but I wish I could have gone north.
I also scored sort of.It was pretty choppy up here but I did get some good ones. On a brand new board also.My skill level is still beginner and I weigh 215. A personal plug for 7S wave magnet. Not a ding on it from yesterday.
i surfed from 7am-2pm . i didnt want to get out of the water but i physically couldn't paddle anymore. VB was really fun all day with the offshores. some chest high sets at the spot i was at. got a couple barrels too. definitely satisfied.
Chavez... hahahaha! NICE..... 757... a seven hour session? I hate you... Yea... 5' @ 8 sec isn't epic... but definitely enough to get your ya-yas out. Surfed a spot that I don't usually go to, but was working well with only a handful of guys out. Pulled into one beautiful tube that made my day... maybe even my month...
The afternoon was kinder to me than the morning. It'd been about a month since I'd been out and didn't feel anything but winded in the AM. Since I didn't get my jollies in the early sesh I went back in the afternoon and had a blast =)
great session- epic compared to how small its been in the past week. got on it for the after work sess- only a few guys out and the waves where fun!!! happy summer is gone... as far as the waves are concerned...
nope. stuck on a business trip in Kansas City. The next time people complain about flat spells, remember, you could be sent here.
hahaha chavez i just read your post. too funny. and LB, i skipped all my classes. first time we had good waves in awhile. wasnt missing that.
Definitely fun in NJ yesterday. I'm goofy. There were some nice peeling lefts to pull into. What I didn't understand is that most people where only getting about 5 % of the waves they paddled for but were sitting too far outside. I get out a lot but I haven't been surfing that long. I still don't understand how people don't realize that you have to take off later on a wave when there are strong offshore winds. I was also surfing a shortboard wave and it was funny seeing longboarders try to surf a wave where they didn't belong. They would catch the wave and eat it. Definitely wasn't a day for the longboard where I was at. Maybe, that was you Fitz, lol.
Late afternoon session till dark in VB ... some great stomach to chest-high sets came through where I was at. Was quite a bit larger than I was expecting, but was so happy to see what was coming in. BTW, looks like next week is going to be a good one as well ... hopefully Wed the wind forecast shifts and it won't get on-shore/sloppy chop ...
Its official, I'm ordering a Surfline membership!!! Swellinfo is just AWEFUL with their models. Missed yet another swell. Yeah I know I need to be on it with the weather, lows, high pressures blah blah. Plane and simple, I don't have the time to be a surf forcaster thus, the reason I rely on swell info and others. Swellinfo, you need to update your models, they are very off. I will no longer use this as a main forcast page. Yes its free to use but lets not get it twisted, Swell gets paid from advertising on their page and the vaule is in hits. So don't tell me Sh*t that its a free service, it SUCKS!!!
