Not planning on doing it...writing a book and would LOVE some help: When paddling out to Pipeline through the channel do you ever need to duck dive, or is it an easy go? I just need to know what it's like so I can describe my character doing it. Also if anyone who lives and surfs on the North Shore is interested in helping me with my book please email me: look_bunnies@hotmail.com. I really want to make sure anything I put about surfing there is relevant. I have surfed and do know a lot about the subject, but have never gone out in big waves or the north shore. I would be ever grateful. C
On most days, paddling out at Pipe is quite easy. You can hop in around back door, and there is a current that takes you right into the channel, which is to the east of the peak. On the biggest, most chaotic days, waves can break in the channel, but that is not the norm and thats usually when its not worth a paddle. From the channel, you can then make your way over to the peak at whatever pace you want. The paddle out is the least hectic part about surfing at Pipe...
yeah this^^ I shot the photos below from the beach there a few years ago on a day you could have paddled out just like in 5 minutes with your hair dry...scary how easy it looked, and how hectic the waves looked.
Dude, you get the best barrels ever, dude. Just like, you pull in, and you just get spit right out of ‘em. Just drop in and just smack the lip, wapahhhh! Drop down: say bahhhh And then after that, you just drop in and just ride the barrel and get pitted; so pitted. Feel free to quote me in your book.
Do some background reading on the difference between reef breaks, point breaks, and beach breaks. They each have their own unique characteristics, and you would need to adapt to them accordingly. Posting here doesn't exactly sound like professional writing research.
are you doing a book about pipeline,or the north shore in general?theres plenty great breaks along the 7 mile miracle.sunset,pipe,vland,off the wall,waimai,haliewa,n many more.i was just reading about the death of todd cheese chesser who died paddling out at phantoms i think,on a rising swell.there a rouge setsthat come in and clean everyone on the inside up.malik joyeux died atpipe,but was a freak accident.another is donnie soloman,who died by getting caught in a rouge lip at waimai while slater and ross williams came in.the north shore isnt a playground and u can never underestimate it.the locals are extremely friendly aslong as u treat them with respect.dont believe all the hype about kala alexander too,he's another guy everyone worries about.treat everyonewith respect and youll learn a lot..........or just watch a bunch of youtube videos about pipe
back in the day we just used to hop into the channel with our blow up rafts, and let the rip pull us out to the breakers. nothin' like sittin out there with the wind at your back and a sweet swell comin in. things have changed alot since then, damn haole boys had to modernize everything and you only see the old timers on rafts now.
Thank you for posting those. The picture that has the boogie boarder just shows the maddening line up there. That doesn't look fun trying to negotiate through all that. Yeah the reward is there but way to easy to get a fin stuck in your forehead.
On the best days it's pretty much impossible to get a wave there unless you are a local, pro or otherwise known and respected ripper. You could paddle out and sit there for 3 hrs without getting a wave. People who think they can go there and just grab some waves have no idea. People who say its an easy wave to surf have never seen it live. It's a complete monster reef break that jacks up from a couple feet to 10 foot in the span of a few yards. Good luck.
I went to HI in April and it seriously changed my life. The land is awesome, the water is clear and the waves were so much fun. I surfed Lanis like everyday and I must say the world can learn respect from the Hawaiians, give respect to get respect. might not help with the book, but I couldn't resist. Kauai is by far the most beautiful and spiritual place on earth as well.
No sh*t it's not my quote. It's actually from Fox News, not Tosh.O. I hope you feel accomplished. Take a joke and stop policing the forum.