Surf Fiction for Christmas

I thought this thread was going to be about suggestions for books about surfing for Christmas. So not to totally hijack the thread, but at least make it about more than shameless self-promotion, does anyone have any suggestions for good books about surfing (either fiction or non-fiction)? I'm an avid reader and there doesn't seem to be a ton of quality literature out there, especially in the realm of fiction. Obviously, BW2013 you're welcome to make your pitch here as well...

 

Just read "The Wave" by Susan Casey, awesome read, couldn't put the book down. Non-fiction btw...

 

Bought My sons West of Jesus (Army Special Forces Medic) and Saltwater Buddha ( Exceptional Education Teacher) for Christmas. I'll read them when they finish them. Both had pretty good reviews.

 

Can't go wrong with captain Zero

 

Ditto on In Search of Captain Zero! Also, On A Wave by Thad Ziolkowski, Kook: What Surfing Taught Me about Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave by Peter Heller, and Pipe Dreams by Kelly Slater are pretty good, too. Soul Surfer by Bethany Hamilton is also pretty good, especially for young folks and if you are OK with the evangelical Christian slant to it. Another oldie but goodie is Men Who Ride Mountains by Peter Dixon.

 

Ghost Wave!

 

Crazy For the Storm.

 

Caught Inside by Daniel Duane. It's an account of the author's time spent surfing the Santa Cruz area. His descriptions of the water, waves and nature are pure art! He also discusses alot of the history of early surfing and relates it to our present time in the water. I haven't finished it yet, but it's a great read so far.

 

Fierce Heart and Eddie Would Go by Coleman.

 

Wow! Thanks for all the suggestions! This list should keep me busy for a while

 

For surf fiction I have a favorite. Tapping the Source by Kem Nunn. Its an incredible story of an inland kid learning to surf while searching for his missing sister at Huntington Beach, complete,with dangerous surf punks, bikers, sex and drugs . He also wrote Dogs of winter and Tijuana Straights. I cannot recommend these books enough.

 

I recommend "Surf Is Where You Find It" by Gerry Lopez

 

Morning Glass by Mike Doyle is a good one
High Surf by Tim Baker (or any of his numerous other books)
And I'll second the recommendations of The Wave by Susan Casey and Saltwater Buddha by Jaimal Yogis (sp?)
I haven't read captain zero but heard that its a really good one so its on the list

 

'The Day of the Dolphin' by Robert Merle
This book is one of The Must-Reads In Your Lifetime.

(almost xmas again, kidz)

 

I was gonna say that, right on!

the Jeff Hakman story is good too. it is not fiction however

 

Bruno & Boots: This Can't be Happening at McDonnald Hall by Gordon Korman......no surfing but a Canadian classic that mimics the freedom and reclessness of youth and surfing.

Caught Inside by Duane, Daniel is a decent read. I got a thing for that coast anyways. But he tries too hard to be descriptive aboot plants and birds. And any SI member will TOTALLY relate to his story. It's full of tales, man, tales. One day he's pearling on two footers, the next he's tackling mackers. But it's a nice book.

Oh man he was the greatest when he used to pen articles for SURFER......all of them entailed a whine session aboot him finding a woman. LOL He was so lonely !! LOL

 

LOL'ing at the LOL...I was a little disappointed in West of Jesus, thought the book had a lot of potential, and definitely covered some good stuff, but the end left much to be desired in my opinion...

 

Agree SS. Salt water Buddha was the better of the two.

 

I thought he was gonna find the Conductor man! I think PJB's the Conductor personally. Love the discussion on flow states and why riding waves is so conducive to facilitating that state of mind.