Ever known someone who use to surf but one day just quit? Ever met someone who says "I use to surf back in the day, but it's been years"? How do you view these people? I'm sure everybody has their reasons for quitting, or what I might call excuses, but at the end of the day, what would you say to someone who gave up surfing for lets say.... kayaking. I'm not judging someone for trying other sports, but I work with a guy who lights up whenever I talk about surfing, he's the type that will tell YOU everything you need to know about surfing, but yet hasn't done it in 20-25yrs... when I asked him the last time he paddled out he says sometime back in the late 80's. I asked why he stopped and he says he got hooked on kayaking and it's the "ultimate water sport". I'm not sure what to make of this...
I don't think anyone quits for some other activity. People quit for work, love and life just plain getting in the way. It would be easy for me to understand someone just being over it. Crowds in the water, lack of improvement after many years, hating the winter and eventually surfing summer only, then vacation only, then 20 years out of the water. I have been surfing for 37 years but for all practical purposes, stopped advancing after 15 years. I try to push myself every time out but time and age takes its toll and it gets frustrating that there are plenty of young guys 4-5 years in that are way better than me. I could see just walking away eventually, not now or even 10 years from now but it's not impossible that someday I will be just plain over it.
I stopped surfing for 7 or 8 years. Never quit. Just got busy with life and then got out of shape, so I just stopped. Then while at work one day I was talking to a young guy who said he surfed. After talking about after all that time I realized I missed it. Within a few weeks I was back into it again. It took some time to get back in shape, but I did. I'm kind of in a rut right now. If I don't get back out there soon, I could see myself just forgetting about it. That won't happen I hope. I have enough friends to kick me in the ass if I get too lazy.
I wish more people would quit. I can't believe how crowded it has been this winter in OC. Kind of depressing as the off season was always so nice to look forward to. It's not the old days of having everything to yourself and a few other similar faces.
I know a ton of people who don't really surf anymore... I used to paddle out with my friends all the time. Now 9 out 10 surfs I'm solo... But that's just life. Surfing doesn't pay the bills or watch your kids , soI can see why people slow down... Especially on the East Coast. With the amount of days of quality surf, and half the year its dark when you leave and get home from work, there's not that many days left. I make my own hours, so I'm lucky... But a lot of my friends don't, so they rarely surf. But it's not because they decided to quit. They just dont have time, or it's flat when they do... It's tough being a "grown up" Surfer on the E.C.
I quit surfing every time there is a flat spell. That way it doesn't matter if there are no waves because, I "quit". I'll pick the sport back up when the ocean is ready to party again.
Not true...i started surfing as some would say "back in the day", actually in 1970...i lived and breathed surf, thats all i did until the late 80's , or until my first child...then came the hectic life of work and paying bills and raising a child, and with that came extra body fat and laziness, maybe not laziness but tired from busting my a$$ at work all the time. Now that my three children are pretty much grown up, i have a lot more time on my hands, five years ago i decided to start surfing again, when i started i weighed in at a hefty 260 lbs., now im at 215lbs. and im 52yrs. young, took me about a year and a half to get my sea legs again, but i got em' back and have been ripping and having fun again. I still today am kicking myself in the butt for taking a break...lol, but i sure am glad im back...peace
I feel the same way. The older I get, the harder it is to put out the effort to surf when you may only be able to paddle out a couple times per month. And it's usually not very good when I do find the time. When I was younger, I would drive down and check it constantly. Now it gets tough to spend 3 hours looking for waves when you have a ton of other stuff to do at home.
who quits surfing. i didn't surf for a couple of years when my kids were born and lived off the coast. i moved back to the beach and surf more than ever. i SUP when i want to paddle. not much for sitting sports.
I guess that's the positive side of being a nooB. I have a long way to go and a lot of improvement to cover before I will hit a wall. I am getting a little discouraged by the lack of clean surf right now, but I will never quit.
my old man lived in hawaii in the 70's. Straight up hippy surfer status. Stories about surfing pipe on acid on thanksgiving day, and the like. Anyhow after a few years of that he had to return to the states (east coast)... Long before surf forecasts or even moderately decent wetsuits, he got tired of the cold and the skunk factor and start making furniture as a hobby. Now he is a master f*cking craftsman and his work blows my mind. To each their own.
i have heard about it. i think it is due to increased crowds people stop surfing. but there will always be that epic light crowd day that is the best.
It gets worse, the guy quit just after highschool, says he bought custom boards and everything and then one day fell in love with a kayak, the end...