good day went down in Delaware. I was worried I wasn't going to get in the Atlantic in January, last day of the month came through.
Nah man. I hate blowtorch offshores too. Makes me turn around and go back to work. Hope there's something left for the cold tomorrow. Couple cams up north looked more doable though...
Nah, you're not the only one. It wasn't really worth splitting work, but that's a subjective call. You are better off going to work yesterday and then taking your daily wages and putting it into your travel fund than that howling half day surf. But hey, some places better than others, what I have seen sure didn't add up to what's in that video. It sure is Jan and it has been flat for a while. I'm not holding my breath for Feb either.
That vid gives a good idea of what it was like... after the swell had faded all day. And it was STILL good! For a couple hours, the buoys hit the magic numbers... 10' @ 10sec. On a south swell, that's money. You could actually tell the difference as the day went on and the period got longer, with fewer makable tubes. But for those few hours it was on. The only fly in the ointment was the eye blistering offshores... got hung up in the lip more than a few times.
Plenty of shackadoodles yesterday and I didn't do one turn, except bottom turns. A couple of the caves I was in were so open the sides and roof were untouchable (I tried, not even close). F the wind, bigger board, head down, dig your ass off and your in. Twas a good day in my book!
Good vid... I dont even remember what its like to surf in the cold... october 20 was my most recent time in... fing sandy...
About half way through my session I thought the exact same thing... not one turn, except for bottom turns and kickout turns. The wind would be the only thing, in my mind, that would disqualify the day from "epic" status. I rode a 6'6 psb... thumbtail thruster.