Yesterday was EPIC. However, going an entire month with out getting in the water and 5mil rubber, makes for very tiresome paddling. So out of shape. Wish I could of stayed out longer, but my arms turned to jelly. We need more days like yesterday.
Ive been watching videos of my buddies and I @ san miguel mx from February and hating being home. Yesterday was a reminder of just how damn much I love home sweet hollow home. Im still amped about the session! Hope everyone got some
I found that it was still working on Friday, waist to chest. I surfed it alone for about an hour until someone else showed up. But is was surprisingly empty. Was everyone surfed out?
still some clean, edible, micro-scraps up and down the coast, left over from that delicious lunch buffet a couple of days ago, if you're willing to deal with 20f air temp and a little wind.