Hardest you've been worked on a wave

She loves the "whitewater"

 

I got an idea...learn how to spell, brahhh! Wappash.

 

ever have a serious 2wave holdown.u wipeout,get twirled around for a few seconds,and as soon as u come up for air,u get a huge lip 2ft from your head of u and it blows u back 30yards.in the middle of winter.but thats the nature of the beast.u cant surf and not expect to get worked a few times.sometimes its fun,sometimes its scary.but u get back out there.ever see that wipeout of andy irons at the pipemasters?he comes down in the lip of a 30foot face.whats he do,paddles back out.thats the mentality u need.i got worked a few years back at tres palmas,wasnt huge but had some 15-20ft faces out there,so id call it an 8ft swell.i was in the impact zone for a good 5 minutes,and a jetski came out of nowhere and saved me.maybe i wouldnt be here today if that ski hadnt been there,but its more reason to have pwcs around when your in decent sized surf.nowadays guys paddle 40ft faces,so a good 15footer isnt shyt to be compared to

 

Me 2 X2

 

Sick of hearing about hurricane season the waves from passing lows are way better. The sandbars arent ready yet and then you have long period stuff gettin all weird on them. Once in a few years u get that magic one like irene and earl they were good shorter period stuff. Sandbars are lame untill the first few swells of the fall sift them out.

And some of my worst workings have been on semi shorebreak waves real hollow and in no water. OR ive had a healthy holddown at way outside jenks got me real spooked.

 

This post is from last year in July.

 

Maybe he's still being held down by Wayne...?