when it's head high beach break or smaller an hollow, what's your go-to board an specs? everyone's different, let's hear some dialogue
Try to borrow some unsuspecting fools board ( wink wink ) and ride it like you stole it! I just want to stay on the fun side of the island so yes that was sarcasm.
in general, i'm grabbing my 6'2"x19 3/4"x2 7/16" CI Dagger squash tail w/ SOAR LE8 tri fin set up from punchy stomach high to about head high. lower entry rocker, plenty of tail rocker=paddles easily, but still fits tightly in the pocket. if it's bigger or more powerful, i'll use a 6'4"x19 1/4"x2 1/2" CI Ft. Knox round pin or Campbell Bros. 5 fin bonzer, also a round pin. more entry rocker, pulled in tail, still fast & drivey down the line but more control w/ the pulled in tail. the 2 boards are nearly identical in outline & rocker, but the differing fin set ups change the whole experience.
Many options but 12' by 24" by 2" is a favourite, puts shortboards to shame in the wave making stakes.
5'9" x 19 3/4" x 2 1/4" custom shape I designed. Sort of similar to a ci neckbeard but with a few less mush board features. Ride it as a thruster or quad accordingly
Walden Magic Model-3: 9'0" x 21 9/16 x 2 7/8 - same board I am using in my profile pic at Playa Guiones. I rode the standard 9'0" Magic Model at Hermosa where it was hollower, but I think the M-3 would have worked better.
this thread is kind of irrelevant unless you add height and weight (and even age) of the surfer. Apples to oranges
True dat. im 6', 32 y/o and 185 suitless. assuming its breaking hard and throwing a bit my go to would be a 6'3" round tail JS (not sure what model it is). that baby is magic although the glass job sucks and i always seem to f*ck something up on it, like the last time i rode it was overhead heaving barrels Sandy and broke the fin box from ripping too hard
I'm 28 yrs old, 6' and 185lbs. I'll take my 5'11x20x2.5 Lost v2 rocket any day of the week. Exaggerated nose rocker helps the wider outline pull into steeper surf.
23' x 24" x 10" Pier Shotting Gnome Bench Model that covers the sky with contrails, sponsored by Monsanto