saturday is going to be a zoo!

it's the current crop of brainless,clueless pros who are a bunch of rich,trust-fund,home-school idiots,but it didn't used to be that way.i think great surfers used to mostly have great minds,too.wayne lynch,derek hynd,greenough,mp,mr,simon,lopez and most others were not just a bunch of burnt morons like these losers today

 

Yeah, good point.

Even the pot head, acid-dropping mainlanders, during Hawaii's early days(50's & 60's) had thoughts in their heads. And even the more caveman types at least had a sense of mystery to them.

The 70's pros, even the Australians, were more articulate and knowledgable than today's group.

But this isn't just aboot the pros.

Canyon dude made a vaild point aboot the "living in the now" aspect of less academic types........I can translate that to other, non-surfer, people and situations too. And it rings absolutely true......most of the time. Of course there are always exceptions to the rules......

And Dawn Patrol SUP, of course you agreed with that post. I expected you to. Why the shock? I'm always right, DPS........except when I'm wrong.

 

Yo... it says here surfing is a sport, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surfing

 

True that, what was I thinking, guess I shouldn't be THAT shocked.

 

Someone recently asked me if I was excited for "surfing season" to be starting up again.[/QUOTE]

Haha... Love this! I get asked this by the people I work with all of the time. The weekend will be coming up and they ask.. "going surfing this weekend?" just because it is nice out... They don't realize there needs to be waves too..
Or on Monday they will ask.. "go surfing all weekend?"

If there were/are no waves, my response is usually something like... "well I went to the beach, but they just call it swimming when the surf is flat"

 

why is everyone so concerned about labeling surfing a sport or not? surfing is what you make it. If your competitive and surf comps then its a sport (I remember reading somewhere that only like 5% of the surfing community compete). If you look at surfing as a purely physical activity then you might consider it a sport. And im not saying that its not physical obviously it is, but there's so much more to surfing then the physical aspect.

This is going to sound real cheesy but I like to compare surfing to religion. Some people read the bible daily, go to church every week, live there lives a certain way so they get accepted into heaven. Well I cant speak for anyone but me but I check the buoys, tides, winds ect. daily. Im in the water every time there's a surfable wave, my life revolves around surfing (lifestyle instead of sport?). I don't believe in heaven or getting in for that matter but I do believe that surfing makes me a happier more positive more tolerable person. I know that when I am in the water nothing else matters. Its therapeutic. There's definitely something spiritual about surfing. And that's all just for me. If you think its a sport great, if you don't cool. who really cares its a label. Surfing's what you make of it

 

My quick on-the-spot theory is that many surfers tend to see themselves as very far away on the spectrum from the jock types, and see surfing as close to the opposite of a game where your keep score and someone wins. Calling surfing a "sport" upsets / conflicts with their self image. Its just a guess.

I agree with you...who cares what the label/category is.

 

Surfing is a sport for some people- the ones that compete in events or like in college or whatnot.
For me its more of a passtime or a way to socialize.

Does anyone know the outlook on the wind tomorrow? I hear its just going to be dropping throughout the day along with the surf... so whats better early or late?

 

Old timer hitting North Jersey Jetties on my AM 7' flyer no worries , I will get my waves looking forward to some overhead sets with offshore winds... the rest of of it is bull$@it. 49 been to PR almost close to the same, it's all about respect. Give it , get it, catch waves and have fun.

 

Surfing is the same and different as other sports... Like peeps said earlier, competitive surfing is a sports. Sick rippers compete at a sporting event and try to win.
regular surfers (like me) are not competing. We do it just for fun... People play hoops as a sport. If you are just shooting baskets by yourself your are not competing in a sport, you're just having fun..
If you are playing a baseball game you are playing a sport. If you go to a batting cage you are just having fun... Unless you are practicing for a game. Wait.... Now I'm confused

 

Groms right here, Bro Namath!!! So much stoke through my veins day and night I can't differentiate between the two. Eat your face off with green tomorrow, brah. I'm down in the south til Monday but need the stories. I know you won't be waiting for no set, you're diving into all of them.

 

You know how to avoid the crowds guys? There's a set rolling up in about 30 minutes I'm going to ride that bad boy from the canyon to corolla then hop on a wild stallion I wrangled back in the 90's and take him on down to south nags head for the dawn patrol sesh.

See you out there jabrozlets.

 

"Surfing is a natural art."
No crowd here at all today except the kooks standing on the beach giving excuses for not paddling out.Then they'll complain all week there's no waves.

 

heh definitely more people on the beach than in the water but it was pretty heavy early. some solid overhead freight trains coming through. yew!

 

It was super heavy by me this morning. Lot of guys out. Lot of people getting some serious tube time.

 

Got a fun left, then a fun right, then on a smaller dredging wave I caught an edge and got slammed on my tailbone in a foot of water. End of session.

Empty out there in OCMD today, in the water and on the beach.

Also, the knubster is a ton of fun.

 

I went the the beach and it looked awesome, I wanted to go out but my dad wouldn't let me because he said there was to much fog and it was pooring and then we left wildwood to go to rio grande as we left the island it stopped raining and the fog faded, I'd rather be beaten with a paddle then know I was missing those waves

 

That sucks buddy

 

Well, at least your dad cares aboot you..........though you should set him straight that rain is not dangerous and fog is good. This ain't the Pacific Northwest with pea soup fog and monsters of the deep.........Yo, I'll talk to him if you want.

Man, Saturday was alright, huh. Solid 3-5' with some mo beef sets filtering through........Winds stayed pretty light......nice soft raining coming down.........beautiful. Surfed a different spot than normal and was glad I did. 6-8 dudes scattered along hundreds of yards of peaks. Ha Ha Rhode Island........

And today back at the usual shred spot, was rippable 2-4' and just asking for smacking.......also some sneakin in for some bub..........ya know what it is that I be sayin' ?

 

If you are young enough that your dad still tells you what to do, it was probably for the best. Surf that big can be incredibly dangerous. Never forget that.