Who likes wiping out?

i appreciate a good thrashing. its part of the game. there's is nothing that gets your mind more in the present, then getting eaten by a wave.

 

A cool thing for you would be a dictionary.

Seriously, took a spill on some head high junk on Monday and it was actually a pretty good rush...made me appreciate oxygen.

 

Eating s*** gets me pumped up. Especially if it's the set wave with the beautiful barrel that closes out. I swear to baby jesus, if science and plastic surgeons ever find a way to put gills on humans I'm gettin a set!

 

At one point, whenever I wiped out I would have a mental flash of a bikini clad girl. Don't know why. It made a nice ending to a wave though.

 

A good thrashing is what body surfing big waves is all about

 

love it.

except when i try to pull into everything i can and end up with a nine foot board and fin flying around me

i also disliked having the side rail of my nose catche me under my jaw on one of these close outs (bertha barrels)

i recall this particular wave and still feel that it was worth it...

anyone have any advice on living with a cracked molar? don't think my fam can afford to pay for it right now. it doesn't hurt or bother me really...

 

who like wiping out?

I think it helps you get over the fear of big waves, you know anything over headhigh. I remember taking a heavy spill on this overhead set wave...went over the falls and after I came out the washing machine I thought hey that wasent so bad. Next wave tucked into a nice barrel that swallowed me whole!!! Sick!!

 

If it doesn't hurt now, it can still be bad. If its cracked, it can become worse... I'm no dentist, but that would let all the stuff in that usually has to eat through the teeth first... I'd say get it fixed ASAP



If you know the break, and you know there isn't reef or rocks below you... you should know that its just water, and you'll get thrashed a bit, but you'll be fine in 30s tops...

 

it gives you a dose of reality once your surfing above your ability

 

prob still somewhat expensive but if u can get to mexico.. i heard (not experienced) that the have decent dental care for very cheap if u go to the right place


as for the wipeout.. i feel like i need one before i actually start surfing. after i get worked pretty bad.. it sort of puts me in the right mind to surf every wave like its the last

 

Seeing stars

Not necessarily from getting crushed, but am i the only one who sees stars after cracking my lower back real bad (Generally from being stupid and trying a cart-wheel)?

 

I haven't surfed in like 3 days and when a nice swell came in it was like a foot or two overhead and I took off on a left and got barreled out of my mind but then it closed out it was still really sick such an awesome feeling even if you dont make it

 

im more worried about having enough energy to power through the next set that will be coming after i surface...not so much doing a bunch of rolls under water and getting sand in my nose

 

Not fun

I know that pushing your comfort zone makes for a better sufer but I would much rather have long mellow ride, paddle back out with a smile on my face and do it again than get tossed in a close out and have to deal with next 3 behind it--not fun but thats just me.
I still consider myself a new guy out there (3rd year) but I'll take the last glassy day of a storm swell anytime over the messy closeouts everyone gets stoked about.

 

yeah would much rather have a waist high glassy day then shoulder high messy chop