Building the 6'6" Gang Buster. Roy Stuarts Parallel Profile construction method.

Harrumph...

 

I don't know much about wooden boards, but this is looking spectacular. A true work of art. Gotta let us know when you're heading out for its maiden voyage. I might have to come down to see it in person...I'm just a couple breaks north.

 

Yes, thats a brilliant idea! It never dawned on me to use a router. That's something I'll try on my next one.

 

Good show Charles. The 207 hardener gives a gold colour to the resin, it's pretty good stuff. I've been meaning to reply to you re. a tunnel fin, will email today. Plans are all done btw.

 

Very clean looking work Charles. I can't wait to see it after the epoxy goes on.

 

If what yankee says is true and these three forum names are one and the same person, it's fairly amazing that the one man behind all three has been having an exclusive round table discussion amongst his split personalities for the better part of a few weeks now. Wowzas!

 

It's best to throw on subsequent coats before the previous coat fully cures. Chemical bond > mechanical bond

 

It is true that one should re coat before the resin is fully cured, so that chemical bonding occurs. The issue is whether or not to sand between coats. One can re-coat as soon as the resin is tacky enough to do so, but the risk is that the previous coat will have formed an amine blush which will prevent bonding. If amine blush occurs it will do so immediately, as soon as the resin contacts the atmosphere. So although re-coating as early as possible can give the best chemical bond, it can also give no bond at all, it's a bit of a lottery. Using a dehumidifier to keep the humidity below 40% relative humidity works, as long as there's not too much CO2 from breathing in the glassing space, as this also causes amine blush.

The most reliable method is to wet sand or scrub with steel wool and water as soon as the resin can be sanded. This removes the blush. If the other side of the board is still raw wood then this can be done with a small amount of water and a clean absorbent cloth to make sure that water doesn't get on the raw wood, a masking tape skirt helps with this. Provided that one is only removing blush not fairing the surface a fine grit i.e. 320 or so can be used, as it is faster and less messy.

Having said that Charles if you are using WEST 105 with 207 hardener it isn't as prone to blush as some resins and can be bonded without sanding quite successfully, it's still best to control the temperature and humidity though, and i'm no longer prepared to risk it.

 

What would be even more amazing is the ability to change my appearance to look like three different people, with three different workshops, and going to the extreme length of using imported Western Red Cedar when I have a shed full of Paulownia.... just so that I can pose as a couple of blokes from the USA.

 

And I was talkin a wit ma-se-elf oh oh uh oh. Oh oh uh oh...

 

I don't care who made it, that is a pretty sweet looking surfboard. Nice work.