I surf 1-2 foot crap to 8-10 foot perfection and love every minute of it. it dont matter to me if it sucks or if its perfect. perfect is better of course but if its big and blown out, ill go out to try and get one or two big drops just for the hell of it. what pisses me off is people who snob over waves like little girls. only going out if the conditions are right, think theyre too good to surf when all the coniditions dont line up. the way i see it its the bad days that make us appreciate tho good ones. id rather be out there in head high chop paddling my ass off than doing anything else. i love the ocean and i appreciate the power and force of waves produced by a storm. I love to push myself and am always trying to get to the next level. Here in VA we dont get many good days, and most of our swell is nor easter swell of hurricane swell. which means drifty blown out days most of the time, with an occasional W wind and spitting barrels if you know where to look. most of the people i know or surf with got soo many other problems in their life due to drugs drinking bad money management etc. I can never find anyone as stoked as me when waves do come. I just recently bought a jetski to do tow surfing and for access to some really good spots such as fishermans island. Problem is i dont know anyone good enough at surfing or crazy enough to charge with me and its getting really frustrating, growing up in South Africa and being able to surf some of the best waves in the world like J-Bay and being able to travel to places like costa rica has really pushed me to seek after bigger waves, and around here in VA the only time we get big waves is during storms. Im 24 and i live in yorktown, im married to a wonderfull wife who understands surfing comes first and supports my crazy antics. If anyone feels like i feel and is frustrated with their group of loser surf buddies drop me a shout and we'll go for a surf.
I feel ya..but to be honest...who gives a **** about them? Why complain over the internet? But trying to do some tow-at's or tow-in's is fun! I tried that this past summer with my best friend..
WOW all I can say as I USED to be you! Having a grandmother with a house in Vero Beach I would be on it everyday for as long as I could stand and til you couldn't see at sunset that was a 'rideable', line just like you it was 2-10 ft chop closing out and blown out OR smooth, peeling glassy days and not just in my backyard but at spots like PV Martins, Ft.Pierce jettty Walton Rocks and Stuart Rocks,Wabasso Sebastian inlet and spots all the way up to New smyrna. Yeah surfing blown out NE winds 20-30 mph was the majority of your year-year surf conditions. Sometimes you would get that freak week, with solid swell and perfect winds, but chop to light chop does make you appreciate those 'clean off shore days' that are always a gamble. But nothing and I do mean nothing is better than consistent practice in all conditions. It makes you learn how you surf different conditions. IMO your not really dedicated unless you really just charge all but real out of control conditions. The more I would do it just keep making me better all the time and trying to nail that trick down, like a tail slide with all 3 fins out for instance was not easy to even try without falling off, but one day you finally get it down and when you actually land it through you feel the sense of accomplishment to all the effort and time you put in it. You appreciate how long and hard some tricks really are to do and pull off Oh yea I went to Costa 3 times in my days and man oh man its so very different the EC swell energy. I mean Jaco Beach is just the messing around hot dogging it spot there, when you go to Hermosa you really see a serious world class surfing spot that is truly hairy to go out in triple overhead size and most times its always much bigger than it looks and then I wear glasses, so most times it was looking at moving massive mtns of water out there..to me nothing but PURE ADRENALINE RUSH!!! Man I better stop, this is driving me nuts to come back and get that feeling. I really hope the swell will get clean for at least 2 days so its worth that 3 hr trip from DC. Long ramble but I just wanted to share the same mind set that used to be me!!
i guess you haven't found the right surf buds. There are a ton of different surfers, which is evident of the people posting on Swellinfo. Be open to meeting new peeps out in the lineup and your sure to find some chargers. I believe in the soul surfing aspect of our sport, but when it comes down to it for me, its mostly about chargin it with my friends.
yeah rebel4liberty, ive been to hermosa twice and both times i saw totally out of control days where i almost drowned, but it only left me wanting more. and i agree mr swellinfo guy. the best part is charging with your buddies, but i dont have any buddies that charge, and im on a restricted liscence for 4 and a half more months, so i have to take what i can get as far as who i surf with. anyways lucky for me my wife doesnt mind driving me to go surf, but she works a lot and she cant just take off like i do when the surf is good. but shes taking me down to rodanthe tomorow to hopefully get some good waves so i cant complain. ill be down there till sunday so someone give me a shout if your gonna be down in OBX.
its basically a fast winch...you set it on the jetty and pull the surfer down the lineup and launch off the waves. I watched guys doing this on the santa barbara harbor jetty last year and to be honest it looked fun. it would be perfect at north side IRI...you could get air on the jetty peak and clothesline a kook longboarder all at the same time.
The good thing about wave snobs Its true that everyone hates them... but when they get kicked out of the water and told never to come the f*** back, then its really awesome. Ten guys ganged up on this jackass and i was standing on the beach with a couple guys and the wave snob (wont say any names) came storming out of the water saying how much of assholes they were. next time dont drop in on everyone!! thanks
next time i have some free time im trying to do some tow in surfing . i have a bit of distance to travel, but would be down to make the drive sometime. nj-->va362 mi – about 6 hours 16 mins.
