Surfing Bucket List

never to post more then 1200 posts on a surf forum in well under 6 months

 

I have crossed off most of my "bucket list". I have moved to CA for 10 years to surf everyday. Traveled all over mexico, the whole west coast, Hawaii. I have surfed the biggest waves that mexico and CA have handled in the past 2 decades. Done a few comps. Got my photo it in a local San Diego magazine back in 2010. I have pretty much lived my dream. Now I have a 2 year old and I moved back to the east coast to continue living by the sea...

When my daughter gets older, I would LOVE to get over to Indo. The land of the perfect lefts. But I am content to wait on that. I don't really have much need or want to go to OZ or the African coast. But I would like to hit up Europes coastline... Surf the south of France while the wife drinks wine... But I would have to say going on a boat trip to Indo would be my #1 that is still left.

 

Cloudbreak and Pavones.
(Disclaimer: I'd probably get smashed at Cloudbreak but I need to go. I need to try)

 

jbay and smallish mavericks.

 

Okay, I will have to agree with you and ad Pavones to my list as well. A few mile long left hander that requires a vehicle to pick up and and drive you back to the point belongs on every goofy's bucket list. Well played.

 

to actually catch fisherman's island doing it's thing.

Proper Indo boat trip.

Picking up and moving to Puerto Rico for an entire winter, enough of this 2 week business

Chavez, go to Pavones, place is amazing. I caught it on a good south in august 2010 breaking solid from the point all the way to the river. DOH on the first peak, HH+ and fast as you want through the inside. Groomed and perfect. For being 2.5 hours from the nearest tourist attraction, place was packed! Nothing like looking out to sea and seeing tree tops above the wave peaks...

 

amen to the FI thing. Lee, i actually have somebody who will boat me out there when its on. he's seen it pumping. Cloudbreak, Peru, Blacks CA firing, and Frisco on its best. I love the outer banks when its on.

 

i have many spots on my to do list before i rot in the soil.
id like to surf ocean beach,san fran on a huge day.i want to surf mavericks on an average but not small day,only after i mastered sunset beach and waimai.i would like to surf the entire indo islands.cloudbreak on a 10ft day.west australia.id like to get a dirtbike and drive down the west coast of africa to nambia,liberia in such of empty perfect waves in war torn countries.id like to paddle jaws one day too.how much of that il accomplish,probably 30%.its always good to dream.my dream session would be 2nd reef pipe with kelly slater,bruce irons,dane reynolds,jjf,craig anderson,clay marzo.id like to surf mavs with flea,pete mel,nate fletcher,matt ambrose,greg long,twiggy.iv been surfing whole shytty beachbreaks my whole life.i was reading the kelly slater pipedreams book the other day,and its funny he said when he was growing up in cocoa beach,everyone would be like hey were going to 13th st,or sebass inlet,or 21st when he says whats the point its all the same crappy beachbreak.kind of like nj,guys will be like im surfin jenks,im goin to bayhead,goin to montoloking,ibsp,when in reality its all the same.its good practice,but gets boring after a while.i had a lot of good friends who lived in point and surfed all the time,but then they get older,get jobs,start a family and stop surfing.thats why u need to travel to keep the stoke alive.kelly used to be terrified of big waves,while his friends like brock little,ross williams,shane dorian would all crack on him for staying on the inside sandbar,when one day he sed fuk it,they say i wont go,im going to go.kelly wiped out on his first wave,a 12ft peak at sunset and said he was amazed how easy it was,he didnt come close to drowning and popped up in 3 seconds.its all about getting over your fears.thats why im gettin into bigwaves.not so crowded when its 20ft and a quarter mile offshore.guys like will skudin and will dillon who can rip in small waves and then go paddle a 30footer.those are my inspirations

 

cepriano, i agree with all of your spots. im not angry or trolling but i think you are the only person I've ever seen write in stream-of-conscious style haha. it's different but effective

 

Boat trip to Mentawais or Maldives. Had a friend who did this two years ago and said it was the best trip of his life. Judging by the pics, I would have to say he was right.

 

Chicama Peru - want to ride a wave for ~ 1 mile

 

Amen to that.

 

I hope to torpedo the Quebecois douche that speared me earlier this year, pee on a jellyfish, attack an unsuspecting shark, slam a wave into the sand (they do this to me a lot), remain flat for a whole season, give a parking ticket to a rent-a-cop and provide SI with an inaccurate swell forecast. I will feel really great if I can do all those things.

 

surfing uncrowded polar regions, scoring chicama and pacasmayo in peru and marbella in CR, surfing CLoudbreak at DOH or bigger just for the experience, getting good waterphotos from inside the tube at Mavs, Jaws and Wiamea

 

Scorpion Bay. Noosa Heads. Malibu. All with less than 10 people in the water.

Mentawais boat trip.

Biarritz.

Living for a few years somewhere in a chain of Pacific Islands

Then settle down back home here in the Florida East Coast, living out the rest of my life quietly waiting for the next wave

 

at least one going to Desert point, G-Land and Padang with no crowds

 

+1, I NEEEEED a perfect mile long left!!!!

 

Of course these things will never happen but,

Score The Great Lakes, especially Stoney Point.

Ireland

Coastal British Coumbia

Iceland, of course

Watch someone from Swellinfo surf

Monterey/Carmel; Sicken the entire population of Santa Cruz, and have it to myself for a week; Fort Point/Ocean Beach; Humboldt and far north locations

Kill all the llamas in Seaside, Oregon and have a go at that point

Alaska

Scotland; Wales; Porthleven, Cornwall

Jenks - I might manage that one

Move to Nova Scotia

 

At this point I think it's safe to assume that you either love wetsuits, or hate warm water/weather, yes?