First- I really love this site. This is my primary source of forecast info for my surfing ventures- which are mostly near Wilmington, NC so far. I appreciate the quality and the technical /scientific nature of the info, but also how it is presented in such a user friendly way- so a Big Thanks! My post is sort of twofold..when I am not out trying to get better at surfing, I find myself looking for good surf related things to read. I read In Search of Captain Zero by Allan Weisbecker and really enjoyed it. He has a new novel coming out (click here if you want to check it out or even pre-order). so I wanted to p*** that along, but also.... ....what other books out there am I missing that anyone can recommend? Thanks!
Tapping the Source TTS is a great book with a lot of surfing in the plotline. Also, I 2nd the recommendation of In Search of Capt. Zero...one of my favorite books ever.
surfgonzo is right, in search of captain zero ( allan weisbecker) is a book i highly reccomend, and pipe dreams by kelly slater
Be carefull! One thing about surfing you can learn not to do is chase something that is not there. The books, the magazines, the videos can often lead surfers to something that is not there...happiness. After a lot of years of chasing crap swells, buying crap mags, competing in crap comps, I realzied I needed to spend a lot more of my time/energy on education and becoming a complete watermen. Try a book called "Rich Dad, Poor Dad!" Someday you will have a property in Nicaragua or a Yacht in Indo? I stopped chasing the pipe dreams and I surf better waves now!!! Kelly Played golf and wrote music, now he is winning with a smile!. Occy lost weight, did triathlons, competed in lifesvaing, got to know his family...won a world championship...smiling! Just a lil note...take it or leave it!
thanks for all ideas. I read most of Kem Nunn's stuff since the original post too. OBLove- your points are well taken and I totally agree. Its just that i am so stoked about surfing, I just was looking for things that gave me a broader view. I focus a lot on learning to be a better surfer - ride a used board, fix my own dings, and would have a hard time naming 10 pro surfers. Have fun, be safe and lets catch some waves...
WOW! This make take the cake for bringing a thread back from the dead! But still those are some good reads listed above.
The BIBLE John 6:19 When they had rowed about three or four miles, they saw Jesus approaching the boat, walking on the water; and they were frightened.
Stop the clown act, eh? We don't want your proselytizing taking over a surfing forum. The person wants to know about surfing reads. Are you that desperate that you need to hijack the thread, yet again?? Admin! WTF. You hook people for minor stuff, what about this psycho naming himself after jeeeeeeezus h effing keerist hijacking every thread for his own use??
I read ALOT and especially when work pulls me far from the Ocean I read more surf/travel books than I really should but here is what is currently on my kindle with surf inspired themes. Also pick up an overpriced subscription to the surfers journal for some great surf stories/articles related to surfing, board shaping, and just the general feeling out there when you can't be. Fierce Heart: The story of Makaha and the soul of Hawaiian surfing by Stuart Coleman Eddie Would Go: The story of eddie Aikau, Hawaiian Hero and Pioneer of Big Wave Surfing: also by Stuart Coleman Kook: What Surfing taught me about love, live, and catching the perfect wave by Peter Heller Saltwater Buddha: A surfers guide to find Zen on the Sea by Yogis, Jaimal Island Explorer: Surfing, Sailing, and Exploring beyond Sumatra and the Mentawai Islands: by Dan Scheffler The Kooks Guide to Surfing: by Jason Borte (funny read!) Californios: a surf noir collection: by Jeff McElroy (some good some bad short collection) Surfing's Greatest Misadventures by Paul Diamond (same.. some good some bad collection of surf stories) The Lost Coast by Drew Kampion (more bad than good surf stories) That should get you started... if you want more or more information on them let me know. Big fan of Stuart Coleman's books and after reading them I started making pineapple swipe using the old Hawaiian recipe and my wife said I started speaking pigeon again. HA!
New Surf Book I authored: Eyes on the Surprise I traveled around looking to learn the hidden ways of the world. With true surf stories, and descriptions of wellness routines; this book communicates the knowledge I found. Book now available on amazon: http://amzn.com/B00ESIAGCW If you read; please consider reviewing on amazon, or liking book page on facebook. Thank you. My blog: http://llavealhighway.com/
A couple people mentioned "Salt Water Buddha." It's pretty good and is a quick read. "The Wave" by Susan Casey is phenomenal. "Crazy for the Storm" by Norman Ollestad is also a good one.
From what I hear some studio bought the rights to this book to make it into a movie... let's hope they don't mess it up much.
Welcome to Paradise, Now Go To Hell... by Chas Smith Just started reading this and it's awesome. It's about the North Shore and all the dirty seedy sh* that goes down.. I don' see how Chas will ever go back and not get killed. I'm only 5 chapters in and he's talking about Eddie Rothman and his thug tactics. He hates Mick Fanning too and says some pretty funny stuff about him. Chas seems like a douche, but pretty damn funny.
bustin' down the door by rabbit Bartholomew is excellent,as is nat's nat and that's that by nat young, and mp-the life of Michael Peterson by sean doherty,and the way of the surfer by drew kampion, but the best book since it is Sunday I must say is The Holy Bible which is not really a book but is the Word of God.