So I had a pretty great weekend of surf this past weekend. The kind of sessions where everything comes together and each wave is better than the last. To make it better, I was on that last HWS I made. Enough about me though. A little more about though first.... I realized I do some pretty dorky stuff while in the zone. One thing in particular is when I'm flying down the line I make flying noises, kinda like the airplane noise you make when feeding a kid. And I usually end my rides with some sort of belly flop. I'm sure there are other ways to be a surf dork that I haven't figured out yet... what do you do? -clemmy the chromium hayzeus freak
OMG - lol. Stop doing that...all of it. when I hit the lip really hard I sometimes say "ssSpah!" (onomatopoeia for the actual sound a board makes when it hits the lip)...I don't yell it out, more like just within my own hearing range. When I do a roundhouse, I say "ssSkash!" during the first half of the turn. That's all. As far as kicking out, I always lay back down on my board before the wave is over so I'm already in position to paddle back out. No wasted motion. It looks smooth and is an exercise in control...just a good habit to get into.
I know, it looks freakin cool. I do it sometimes but mainly I do the dork flop. I do a lot of other cool things though, I promise.
I always recite Capt. Quint lines from Jaws while sitting in the line-up. I do it while fishing too which makes more sense than doing it while surfing. So, if you ever surf in the greater Sea Isle/OCNJ area and some weird old dude is sitting in the line-up singing 'Farewell and Adiue to you my fair Spanish Lady' in his best Quint voice, then you know you are surfing with ole Chavez.
...."I'm not talkin' 'bout pleasure boatin' or day sailin'. I'm talkin' 'bout workin' for a livin'. I'm talkin' 'bout sharkin'! "
Gotta get goofy every now and again, have some fun and share a wave. Chavez that's funny stuff...I'm coming down there this fall so I'll be listening for ya.
When it's real foggy, well east coast foggy, I pretend I'm in Northern California. I imagine I stayed at some flop motel and walked down a friggin cliff and through the redwood forest. I pretend I get acosted by some surly locals and show them a little Jersey Justice and by the end these locals.......well, they just love me and give me herbal enchantment - the good stuff. They wish me luck as I head down the trail....... Then I surf, senses hightened by the white shark presence. I sing songs and talk to myself and dig the erie spooky vibe. Then I go to a local diner and start treating the people around me like they are lumberjacks. I also tell the waitress to make sure and call me, " Hon," at least five times. I ax for flapjacks, and I tell a group of Humboldt University students that if they care aboot trees so much then they should go wipe with a spotted owl. Yeah..........
After a small wave ride, I dismounted the longboard and landed on my feet in about 5" of water. Waves were TINY that day so I was not paying much attention to the waves coming in behind me. I swung the longboard around to head back out when a huge 1ft wave slapped me and ripped the board out of my hands. I was de-wanded by a < 1ft wave. Nowhere to hide on a busy summer day at the beach. Maybe not dorky as much as very embarrassing.
Started to do this each session this summer when surfing with my kids. Lay down on my back on my board, and try to keep enough balance to do a few sit ups. Usually ends up with a few grunts, and me falling in a$$ over elbows. Either it lightens the mood in the line up or I come off as an old kook. I'm good with it either way, and I get to embarrass my daughters.
Once off at beach middle of nowhere. Had a slot entry to get in and out. Well it's the last wave of the day everyone catches a wave in. Now its my turn. I'm late getting it. Some how I'm doing a kids somersault forward on the board while on the wave still and the board as well. I quickly recover and pop up and ride it in. When I get in I'm all embarrassed, yet no one saw it because they were busy with the tricky exit. So I explain it to them and we all chuckled over beers.
Ahaha that happened to me when i first started! thought the board would protect my ass.. i flew back onto the sand, that wave killed me, not even a foot lmao.
I was just thinking, i never remember if i fart in my suit, is it possible? or do u just **** ur suit. ahah