Ahhh... Finally

like knee and weak where i was.

 

Yesterday mid-day was good here in FL and the waves had more energy than usual. This morning there were still some long period lines but was closing out due to the low-tide (our beach is just horrible at handling outgoing tide/ low tide this season).

I hear ya about work. I did dawnpatrol this morning, and those two hours just flew by so quick. I wish I could be there all day.

 

Drove by the beach on my way to work at 6am. Still breaking way too close to shore to get much of a ride. It's supposed to improve from now until tomorrow night, so many hours of shredding gnar will take place.

The anticipation is killing me. I have an anxious stomach ache and work is going by slow.

 

Dude, this is how rumors get started! J/K Glad you "scored" some DP, was looking fun on the cams, leaving tonight so will be in the water at sunrise

 

haha, go get some. Beware of the Jellyfish infestation

 

I got out before school this morning. I only got to surf from 6 to 7 but definitely got some really fun shoulder high sets all to myself

 

^^^ So the water wasn't overly salty after all?

 

If I cover myself in jelly (grape preferably) beforehand they won't be able to detect my presence

 

It was salty as sh!t.

 

It was much better yesterday, especially on the incoming high in the morning. Wind starting to switch to due north here now and will stay that way until Sunday.

 

3 foot with occasional 4 foot sets and the very rare 5 foot sets and glass here, south winds made it a bit rough yesterday (which was bigger), but got out for 3 and a half hours this morning and my god the sh!t eating grin on my face never went away.
And just when I was starting to be convinced the ocean was broken..

 

Yeah. It was way fun today south of Belmar. Im trying to fly down the line and get a turn in and dudes are busting airs and rodeo flips getting ready for The contest. I felt old. But I had fun...all that matters. But it was easily waist to chest with an occasional bomb here and there.

 

Really?? Wow, you should have headed north.

It's like triple-over-knee up here...........solid 3-5'. Yeah, no foolin'............actually around 10:30 there were a few sets trying to be macho........

 

I'm saying it right there with you, brother. Got out last night and all day today...so amped to finally ride a wave with a little bit of size...beautiful lines

And the mood out in the lineup is so awesome, everybody biotin' for each other, laughing and sharing waves.

This is what it's all aboot!!!

 

Waves were really good and fun but the jellyfish made me get out of the water. It's a lot less fun when your nuts are on fire

 

Ooh yeah, that ain't fun...looks like I made the right call going to the spot I went to.

 

Paddington, you'll be happy to know I made it out. I was able to paddle half way out to the break before my white foam belly board broke in half.

 

it was good and pumping here first time in months today

 

I was stoked to be able to go and surf yesterday and today for 4 hours each....only caught 5 waves (4 yesterday, 1 today) before I got out of the water and just chilled on the beach. Too many of those stinging bastards and the sex with them isn't even any good! WTF!