What if, on an evolutionary scale, all humans revert/progress back into amphibious>sea dwelling creatures and us watermen/women are just quicker to evolve. I mean surfing and love for the water is passed down from generation to generation. Suppose exposure to the sun, saltwater and the "(insert surfing feeling here)" while on the wave gently changes our DNA. Would you be happy or sad if your new baby had functions gills similar to The Mariner?
Sadly, I think natural selection no longer exists with the advent of modern medicine, but if it did exist, surfers would be bred right out of the gene pool. As a demographic, action sports enthusiasts tend to take more risks. Natural selection favors non-athlete vegetarians with desk jobs and short commutes.
I surf because its the one moment in time where everything goes away. I think about nothing and its pure enjoyment every time.
Really a great thread. Clemson, Are we not men? We are Devo. ZaGaffer, Breakfast of Champions. Now draw me a beaver. That time stretch thing is the truth.
I think a major point of surfing is for the solitude and peace so I usually try and find a spot where no one is at
one of my favorite authors! everything he ever wrote is great "everything was beautiful and nothing hurt" ever read venus on the half shell by Kilgore Trout?
The obsession, the skill and artistry of surfing and the creation of hand-shaped boards. The fun, the freedom, excitement and challenge - including that element of risk. Putting yourself out there, year-round, rain (snow) or shine; being one with, not against, nature. The anticipation of the next session, the next set, the next ride...the next new board. Early morning glassy conditions and offshore breezes. It's that first dunking in the morning: salt water in your face, through your hair, in your beard. It's the smells: the sea, the breeze and salt spray, the wax, the rubber. Watching the dolphins, sea turtles, and low-flying pelicans. The outdoor exercise and the good kind of soreness in your muscles after a long session. That first cold one or hot cup of coffee after coming out of the water. And there's the therapeutic value of it all - especially in our digitized, cubical-ized, controlled and regulated society. ...Besides, it's cool and the chicks dig it - at least until you get married.
1. A) after watching some sets roll through and realizing not one of the 30 at that peak can catch waves. B)if the 30 guys can catch waves 2. B 3. B 4. C
DawnPatrolSUP, you nailed it, man...this thread is awesome! Had to get stitches on a finger, so I'm out of the water for 7 days...not too thrilled about it, but I'll be right back on it. Surfing has brought me an unbelievable feeling of true happiness & harmony with nature, I am a better person and feel truly grateful for the fact that I am physically able to participate in such an amazing experience of life. I give thanks and praises to the most high that I was enlightened, amd continue to be enlightened by the magical world off of our coasts. I have attained much respect & love for our earth, and have been humbled by the force of her touch. Stay stoked, mi compadres.
September 28, 2013........... Today was the first real day of the "off-season." No one out in the water. Just a few trucks on the beach........The way it is supposed to be. And all the Erock fisherman were casting into the inlet....... I love Erock, always have, but he is so mean to me lately. So mean......... He ignores me so much. At leats he doesn't throw angry vibes at me like D-Lauren and Brewenginner and Za Gaffer does. Hey, you sons batches stop your computer hijinks......I'm not going to click on those email links. It ain't gonna happen.......... Oh My God, I am so aroused right now........... Oh hey yo, I'm going out on a limb and gonna make a prediction..............The Eagles are going to win tomorrow........Yep, I said it.........Denver ain't got nothing on Kensington........Five points is nothing compared to 49th and Paschall......Ya know what it is that I be sayin........ I sat outside the Golden Nugget for hours today watching people go to the Boat Show......I saw many a nice female buttocks.....who knew? Females really likey boats? Ok.........Pumpmaster, did you go to the boat show? Thank you.