Midlength Epiphany

agree but if somebody really know how to create speed it isnt hopping. should be very flowing.

 

Agreed...If you're hopping you're on the wrong board, or paddled into the wrong wave.

There are plenty of short, wide low rockered boards out there being made specifically to surf knee-thigh high waves in a flowing style. IMO the biggest development in shaping over the past 5 years has been the refinement of sub-six-foot boards that make small days really fun. 7'6" funboards didnt work very well in small waves in the 1990's when they were invented and they really havent changed much. Just one opinion, and i know its been beaten to death.

I dont know anyone who ever went from riding 5'8" stubby in small waves to a mid-length.

By the way. I have a 7'0" that i like a lot, so i'm into mid lengths under the right conditions...generally cold offshores and fast hollow waves over shoulder high.

 

That is a great explanation of when and how to use a mid length. Most newer surfers think they would be great for waist high choppy and kind of crap conditions but they are not. You need a small board to fit in the tight spots on these little waves.

 

I've had a LOT of different 'funshapes". And I mean a LOT !! I'm currently riding An 8'0 Maya {SC} Epoxy. DIM: 18x23x17x3. We patterned it after a DAVO fish. They key to this board is, that it has a huge swallow tail with a quad and a deep center concave running out through the tail. Catches everything it looks at, nice glidy feeling, and turns better than most fun shapes. Killer gray and white swirled graphics. Everyone that has rode it, came out smiling.

 

I don't ride mid lengths because they don't do anything I want to do on a surfboard well. And I'm not talking about a 7'0, down railed, rounded pin single fin when I say "mid length." That's a retro single fin in my book, and I like them... sometimes. When I think of mid lengths, I think of funboards or hybrids... the FC Huevo Ranchero a fine example of the latter. But there are lots of performance eggs and such out there that are acceptable midlength boards for guy who just wants to style it in a variety of waves.

But me, personally, I have no desire to rip the sh!t out of a 1 footer. I'd much rather log it and get some tip time. A little more wave... thigh to waist high or so... and one of those short, flat, wider designs is good for a change of pace, particularly if it's sloppy. I'll stay on the log if it's clean and peeling. Up from there... in the belly to chest high range, it's a fish for sure, because at that point a well designed mid length would be a good call, too, but I prefer the retro twin for it's loose feel, blazing speed, and pocket handling. The guys who ride midlengths well are the guys that have exceptional style, board positioning, and flow. It's actually really cool to watch a guy who can ride those things well. I just can't get the rush I'm after on one.

Shoulder high and up it's a performance short board.

 

Check out Thomas Bexon's Hullabaloo. It's on my wish list.

http://www.thomassurfboards.com/hullabaloo.html