My most fun time surfing was a 4 day mini trip surfing in RI,with a chest-head high swell every day and good conditions, surfing every spot we could think of, great time.
OK grom dude! Your thread made me think back, but due to foggy conditions I'll just go back to the last best session since the Sandy Frankenstorm, which was sketchy due to how close it passed, size of swell, and lack of lulls. Last day of February,and I remember distinctly because turtle nesting season starts March 1. There was a dredge about 200 yards north of the jetty, and it had to be moved that night at midnight due to Federal laws governing sea turtle protocol. It was about the same distance from shore as the end of the jetty, and it had been there for about a week. I got to the beach, knowing there was a swell, but not how big, so I brought my longboard and my shortboard just in case. I parked at the end of the trail, and walked down, and it looked like a dream. It was raining barely, kinda misty, and about 60 degrees air temp, 72 degree water ( sorry guys, it says warm next to the Gulfstream year round). No wind. At all. Slate grey water, slate grey sky. Hard to differentiate the horizon. Sea and sky blended into a monochromatic palate. I saw what looked like a flock of pelicans bobbing on the water just north of the dredge. All of a sudden, a set broke the plane of the sheet glass water, and it wedged up and refracted off the dredge to a 10 foot (face) A frame, and the pelicans turned into surfers, scrambling for the peak, and it tubed and spit right against the grain, and walled up left towards the jetty. I ran to my car, grabbed he shortboard, almost ****ting my boardshorts. Once I made it into the lineup, I saw there was a mix of locals and a few lifeguards and sponsored guys from another break. They were clueless. A buddy's kid who is 21 now, owned it. It was one of those days when your A game shows up, and every right I dropped into was a barrel for 3 seconds, and over half I made it out of! The lefts were 3 to 4 foot overhead walls that could be hacked and shredded. The crew was on fire, and there was not a drop of water out of place. It has totally sucked since then. Peace!
I think it's hard to pick a best ever session. My most memorable this year was on a six day trip to CR this August. Me and three buds went to Esterillos Centro on a day it was forecasted 4'...our smallest day. When we pulled up we were surprised what looked like a head high day super clean with no one out. So we all paddle out together and Im duck diving...and duck diving... and after about thirty duck dives before I was like WTF? I'm either super tired or this current is out of control. When I look around we're all only about half way out and the head high waves are f...ing bombs. But they were perfect bombs! It took @45 minutes and 75 duck dives to freedom but we all made it out. I realized how big it was when dropping in and it took 3-4 times longer to set the bottom turn and if you didn't kick out you got a taste of the juice and were sent back to 20 duck dive territory. Worth every dive though for sure!
My best session ever was with my psychic, when she predicted that in 2014 the American Civil War would begin anew as Northeast gangbangers and Midwest farmers united against Southern good 'ole boys and Christian fundamentalists in a conflict so idiotic that the socialist American military, with the help of all rational citizens, brutally eliminated both fighting sides, forever altering the American landscape and borders, thus raising the collective American intelligence ranking to 217th in the world, barely beating the 218th most intelligent nation, a country of deranged citizens, with brains forever damaged by toxic woodworking chemicals, the freshly minted nation of New Zeal-Mainelandia.
Their national symbol is a psychotic looking beaver sitting on an EZ Boy recliner mounted to a 13 foot log. HA HA! Wearing an orange jumpsuit with a white helmet.
lets maybe try and not pollute this one? one fav session of mine was in nicaland in 04, Playa Colorado, only 4 guys on a giant stretch of beach with A frames everywhere a lil bit overhead at the peak, playful hallow empty waves....did this for about 2 weeks straight, it was the bees knees, have some shots but they are too big (mpixels),If I can shrink em I will post em Ive also had Octobers in NJ that were just mindblowing, you cant imagine that it would get *THAT* good and only have you and 5 friends on a peak, just so so good some bodysurf sessions that I got more tubes than the internet, just unreal
one of those TS swells from 2011, had been pumping for like 4 days, was on the decline and only supposed to be 2-4 ft. Hugely undercalled (thanks swellinfo!). I show up at daybreak for perfect, machine like, stand up barrels and not a soul in sight at one of VB's most coveted spots. My buddy and I traded perfect waves for about two hours before the crowd got on it. Then we went to mary's and had the "how awesome was that?" discussion over some biscuits. Good times.
costa rica at mal pais it was about 10-12 hands down the biggest waves ive been in. i hadnt surfed in a few month and had been super lazy. im super stoked when i hit the beach even though it was kinda closed out i saw some make able sections. i had a 7,0 i brought with be 5 fins ,it was also kinda thick so it took a few days to get a handle of duck diving it. but anyways there was some gnarly red tide as well but i didnt come half the world away to not surf. after about 45 minutes ducking and no luls in sight i make it outside one clean up set and it would be the whole battle all over again. i catch a good over head wave then pull out out quick. so me and this other dude that had the balls to paddle out (the other 4 dudes that came couldnt handle it all from new jersey btw). there were rips everywhere so i tell dude to get out and we paddle sideshore down to a good looking right hander, im goofy btw so this was a hard wave. huge bomb set come in probably about 13ft im like **** it charge it, not being used to waves the big i just rode it down the line and did a off the lip and rode to the inside the other dude caught the next set we were both super stoked. best (big wave) sesh for me.
Then there was this session in monmouth county, so many good days at this jetty, not to crowded either, I mean literally dozens of sessions like this over the course of a few winters, just me and a few buds...good times
Random day at Harvey Cedars, me and two friends. 4-6 perfect square right barrels all day. One of those sessions you don't expect to be epic but the lack of people made it all time. Also Hurricane Irene( i think ) also two friends out and no one was surfing. Drifting from 14th to 8th street OCNJ 40mph off shores but waves were so good. damn. . . I want to surf
I remember the best week of surf. Rocktober 04. System was stalled in the Atlantic and pumped out head high plus from Tuesday to Sunday. It was offshore and pumping in NY all day long. By far the best week of surfing (at home) I've ever had.
nynj, I remember that, so many days of pumping overhead surf, I used a few sick days....they were sic alright, haha!
Me too... I remember I used 2 sick days. And I was working near the beach. So on Friday I surfed before work, at lunch and after. That's what made it so sick. It was offshore all day
Sunset at Lower Trestles a couple years ago. We walked a mile up the beach from San Onofre in the late afternoon on a small but clean day. People began leaving about an hour before sunset and by the time the sun set there were only a handful of us left on the peak at Lowers and the sets were classy little 3 foot a-frames with perfect running shoulders. Dolphins were around, and pretty soon there were just three or four of us sharing the peak and the ocean got that oily orange - purple sheen it gets on a glassy day after sunset on the west coast. It was kind of cool that such a ridiculously zooed out spot could become tranquil, mellow, and drop dead beautiful for that last hour. Then a mile beach walk in the near dark back to where our car was parked at San-O.
