Sometimes I question myself as to why I'm not as good as I think I should be after 2 years of surfing and living 2 hours away from any source of waves. Also, I wonder how these 'young' guys I see in the lineup are so good. Ya, #1 most of them probably live close by, but his point is, and this is very inspiring, "How old do you think those guys are out there?" And I say, "Oh, maybe 25, 30 or so." Then he says, "Exactly! They probably started about the same age that you are now and have 15 - 20 years of surfing under their belt. So you've only been surfing for 2 almost 3 years and are already good enough for someone that lives 2 hours away from waves." Then he says, "Imagine where you'll be in 20 years and you're their age!"
#I'veOnlyBeenTheirTwiceAndItWasFiringBothTimesIDon'tEvenLikeHashtagsJustTryingToKeepUpWithThe21stCentury #WhyDoWeSurf?
Although I think in theory this is true, sometimes it doesn't work out that way. Some people are just plain born to surf. It comes naturally and they advance in a handful of years far above others who have been surfing a long time. Others like myself are not born to surf at least not with natural ability and body type. I am tall, muscular, and awkward. I have been surfing a looong time and even though on an average day I am as good as most of the average surfers and better than a few there is always that young guy that has surfed for 2-3 years that just plain has it. This is why most people drop out after 3-5 years, consider themselves surfers, tell everyone they are a surfer and surf once or twice a year until they get too fat to do it anymore. Some, like me are hard headed and have high hopes that it will all come together someday and keep striving even in the face of physical decline and age.
Of course, there is always the measure of good. I used to think being a surfer was being "good". I now see being a surfer as a person who can undoubtedly hold his own in the lineup but more so is committed to taking off, even when late. there are a lot of kids who learn 360 airs without even knowing how to do roundhouse cutback. In fact I heard someone say "Whammy Bash" the other day. What the hell is a Whammy Bash? I learned to surf on the wave. I have tried airs and its not pretty. I end up wasting waves to no end. And for what? to say I can? Thats a joke. I'll stick to the barrels, snaps, and cutbacks. #Belmarishomeofthewhammybash
Thanks all for making me feel better about my age. I'm 38, surfing since I was 12. Just got into single fin shortboards. Only longboard when the waves require me to. A good wave still makes me feel like I'm in middle school.
46 Took up surfing 4 years ago at 42 y/o after many years of windsurfing so at least I had an idea of how waves behave at my local spot and knew enough to stay out of people's way. With those stats, I know I'll never be a great surfer, but I'm having as much fun as the guy who's been out there for 20 years, so no complaints!
I like to watch "Surfing For Life" once a year or so and I think it is relevent to this thread. http://www.surfingforlife.com/
"...Sometimes I question myself as to why I'm not as good as I think I should be after 2 years of surfing..." "...Some, like me are hard headed and have high hopes that it will all come together someday and keep striving even in the face of physical decline and age." ***** I've only been at this 15 months, so perhaps I'm speaking out of turn. I began learning to surf later in life, but have been grateful ever since. I'd been involved in a number of other water activities throughout my life - including bodysurfing - and kept in good physical condition. So I began slowly, just enjoying being able to get out on the water. Always loved the ocean. It's easy to think, "I wish I had started surfing sooner." The ol' "woulda, coulda, shoulda". Who needs that? You're going to have good days and bad days, hit plateaus, and maybe experience slumps that last for days - perhaps weeks - depending on how often you go out. Can't seem to do anything right. Can't get dialed in the the new, smaller board, etc. At least I did. You may think you look like a fool. Heck, maybe you do. So what? You're out there, man. You're trying. Sometimes you just have to swallow your pride if you want to make any progress. It's the same with many other sports or activities: skiing, skating, windsurfing, martial arts, etc. It comes down to how much you enjoy it and what you get out of it. Sometimes my wife will accompany me to the beach. She'll watch me struggle into my wetsuit in the wind, changing after a session, and rinsing out & hanging up my gear once at home. I've had to ask her for the Advil after more than a few sessions. "You must really love to do this," she'll comment. "You do seem generally happier, though. Oh, and by the way, keep your smelly boots in the garage." But it goes beyond enjoyment. Not every moment out there (or getting out there) is fun. Shivering your ass off in a breezy sub-40 degrees while struggling out of a wet wetsuit and fighting (with sore and tired arms) to get the board secured on the car roof before it flies out of your hands are admittedly not a lot of fun. And yet, it's all part of it. But I feel we need the challenge, to get out there with nature and away from all the gadgets and technology - especially for those of us who don't find this type of satisfaction or a strong sense of purpose from our regular day-to-day jobs. It then becomes almost like a fix one must have. If you don't have it, you don't feel right. But once you have it, you gotta keep comin' back for more. Anyway, I've rambled on long enough. Enjoy the rest of the Holidays, gang, and have a happy new year.
Thanks bro! I just got in from a high tide session - choppy shoulder high with bigger peaks, steep drops with sudden endings type waves. I am sore. Got thumped on a few. Made a few nice ones. It is very rewarding to still be able to catch good fast breaking waves and ride them reasonably well. And yes, time is spent on conditioning and flexibility. Nothing is taken for granted. So it is well worth the minor aches and pains. Hope everyone is getting some nuggs out there. Geez I thought I was old, some of you guys (and gals) are ancient sea creatures! Keep shredding!!!
Old enough to be yo dad.. Ganna start surfing in the summer when the real b!tchin waves swing through da hood
