Surfing pre Gloria swell. fin hit me in the foot, doc sewed up sand and sea monkeys in it. it got infect, got put into the hospital. Was left to rot for 4 days. went to a real hospital. Doctor cut a damaged muscle and rotted in 2 artery out. laid up for 3 months. Lost a schitty paying job.
Gored my upper inner thigh with a 9 inch lb fin 2 years ago. I thought I lacerated my scrotum, I usually enjoy checking out my junk but that day checking in my shorts after seeing a stream of blood pouring down my leg was terrifying. Luckily it missed Peter and the boys, I ended up with 30 stiches and 6 in the muscle, it was about an inch from the femoral I was told. Here's a pick after it was cleaned up right b4 they stiched it.
yeah i try to avoid it as much as possible but sh!t happens. now every time i fall i cover my head with my arms until i reach the surface
One time I was out and it was like chest high perfect peelers. I took off on a nice one and was going down the line and see it starting to break like a perfect a-frame a little bit ahead of me so I took a few strong pumps, and bend down to get in the barrel. I see the light and thought with one more small pump id come out, but when I tried to pump my board got sucked right up the lip. I fell and my board whipped around and I took the rail straight on my cheek bone under my eye. I arise from the water and grab my face and my hand is covered with what I thought was blood, but it turned out to be the red zinca I put under my eyes... Last time I used red zinca haha. Just wound up with a black and blue face. Got lucky
You got that right, my 5 month old wouldn't b here if that had happened! 20+ years in the water, unfortunatly it was my time to get bit.
The ole' ***** pancake smashed mine with a 3/2 on this fall if I was in shorts I couldn't imagine I mighta damaged something.
Last March. Cold chest high waves. Went backside and held the rail thinking I might make it out of a barrel. It started closing fast, drifted too high and got catapulted way far into the flat. I body surfed for a split second and noticed my feet were in my peripheral vision. I couldn't move from the waist up. My buddy paddled into impact zone, ditched his board and got me on mine and pushed me into the whitewater several times before I got to beach. Went to VA hospital, 2 discs were wedged into my spinal column, cutting off my cervical and thoracic nerves causing temporary paralysis. Bent so badly my neck leaned to the right side of body. It looks like a broken neck in MRI, thankfully its not. So, two herniated discs and two bulging ones in my neck. Been doing cervical traction and therapy to avoid surgery last 7 months. So now I have to be extra careful if I feel tingling in my right arm, means its time to get out. Also I received a traumatic brain injury in the marine corps so when its overhead I usually don't paddle out because one more shot to the head and I could be done for sure. My buddies joke and call me a wuss, but I live to surf another day and just wear the sarcasm.
i busted my kneecap up on a end of the wave closeout wipeout thingymagig at sandy hook where theres all those submerged boulders.i jumped off into the whitewash and it was probably knee deep and my knee tore apart some ligaments.didnt break it,but my knee still gives me pain,cant put much weight on my left foot,and cant squat.anybody on here know how one would get something like that looked at?
Broken ankle breakdancing three months later... No walking at all 2 months from june 26 th to sept 1 st.. Worst summer ever.
Class 3 sep shoulder 6 mnths after broke my ankle... Another 2 mnths outta water.. Lets recap in 9 mnths broke eye socket, broken ankle ( not a sprain a ****ing break), then type 3 ac joint sep... Total time out of water over 4 months
I was partyin in the woods like 12-13 yrs ago when I was a young teen,and the cops showed up and as I ran I twisted my ankle.had to walk 3 miles just to get home.not too bad,but compared to my knee its like a sprained ankle lol
Many moons ago I took off late on a head high wave and I had to bail, my board did the pearl thing, shot back at me, my fin, and only single fins back then, caught me between pinky toe and the second toe almost severing it off, my brother drove me to the hospital, where I received about twenty or so stiches and a penalty of about six weeks out of the water.
u got drive dude,but if u keep messing your body up like that,why continue? I remember this 1 skater growin up,he broke his arms twice a month,knees,legs.never saw anything like it.whenever u saw him he had a cast or something,and he'd still be skating.he had heart,but I would've quit after the first few breaks.i almost broke my arm skating,jumped down a 6 stair and fell put my arm out for support,and it actually started to bend backwards and I thought it was about to break.after that I started surfing,njs sandy bottoms are nothing compared to concrete
[video]http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=kkkOBw5j70w&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DkkkOBw5j70w[/video] Felt a need to prove it wasnt just drunken wedding dancing... People actually do this! For real tho how many 34 yr old white surfers do this?
Why continue?... LOVE... And cuz i still can. When i cant no more i wont i guess... Til then gonna spin on my head and get winter barrels then ride some pow... And for my kids... I mean how dads do this ****? Its hard to teach what u cant practice!
Both ears trashed by "surfers ear". Got the right ear drilled out last winter. Getting the left ear drilled out this coming Tuesday...sorry I know I've posted this before. If I take a few extra waves on Sunday, don't take it personally...I'm just making up for the fact that I won't be able to surf again until mid-late March at the earliest. Other than ears - bruised ribs from coming down off a floater on my rail and a broken pinky from trying to surf Delaware's shorebreak in the Hurricane Dennis/Cindy swell of 1998.
...conditions were about 3-4ft with bigger sets and super-low tide.....I was caught inside and dived under the first wave in the set. However, I did not put my hands in front of me and landed in the sand on my head/side of my face. I felt and heard every single piece of muscle/tendon/ligament/bone/fascia crackle and pop from my shoulders up. I fully thought I was paralyzed for a second or two. I got washed in and started walking towards the beach, disoriented and having a full-blown panic attack. My neck was immediately f-cking killing me and my face was burning. Got to my car, looked in a mirror, and noticed I split open the bridge of my nose and skinned the right side of my face off. I dealt with sh-tty nerve pain in my neck for about one month and went to the chiropractor a bunch of times to get adjusted. I'll never make that mistake again.
my worst injury... and Im still recovering from it every day... I was told I was not cool enough to surf belmar. that fckn hurt.