worst surf injury?

face smash

nose of board to my lower lip. been told the 26 stitches improved my appearance.

 

was that really you?
isnt white surfer redundant on the east coast?

 

Someguy... that's some heavy gore.

Early summer one day, still learning (still am)...

Fist wave of the day, chest-high left. I bungle the takeoff, pearl, and get sucked over. I feel my foot get wacked really hard. I get back outside and it hurts like a b*tch. Thinking I might have broken a small bone, I lift my leg up to look, and there's a flap of skin folded back over the top of my foot.

I paddled in, and after seeing me hobble, a lifeguard came over and gave me something to clean it out. He told me I had to go to the hospital to get it stitched up. No insurance, no stitches. One shoe on, one off; out of the water for three weeks.

 

one is less likely to fug around on big azz days. I ate doo on my wave, and neglected to tuck and roll because it wasn't heavy.

 

Really?

A Chat With the Nautical Negro

...There's a documentary called "Whitewash," it's about the intersection of surfing and race I suppose; it had some cool history about African American surfing, in addition to the history of segregation in swim instruction and beach activities. It's worth checking out; definitely better than most of the crap that passes for surf doc's. Here's a link:

White Wash (Trailer)

BTW Blasters, congrats on your new avatar. Looking pretty good! I had no idea your wife surfed.

 

I had a heart attack while surfing Thanksgiving morning, 2012. Luckily, I was with a couple of friends who helped me get to the beach and called 911. Pretty scary ****. Was back in the water in February.

 

Helmet and a cup. Some gruesome 'nad injuries.

 

Surfing Nags Head on a gorgeous 3-5 ft glassy day, it was really fun until the tide started going low and the waves really started to suck out and detonate on the inside bar. I'm in line for a set wave that looks like it's gonna have a corner, start to paddle for it, at the last second, the whole wave just slabs up with me in the lip. In an effort to not go over the falls I slide off the back of my board and take a few kicks, the board gets sucked over first and sort of tombstones itself straight up onto the sandbar, i go over about a half second later and get credit carded right up the ass. I let out a guttural "uuuggghhh" as I'm planted onto the tail of the board, then took a rather bad beating with little air in my lungs. My asshole was on fire, when i got back onto my amazingly not broken board, i put my hand back there and came back with a handful of blood. got back to the beach, and stuffed a t-shirt in there and squeezed till it stopped bleeding, this took awhile. The tide started to fill in, surf turned on again, so i went back out and caught a few more, it continued to bleed. ended up needing three stitches to close the tear on my butthole, taking a dump was not fun for the next couple weeks.

 

Every time I take the log out, I look at that 9" skeg and hope today isn't my day...

 

Hahaha I think the same every time I see it next to me in the lineup. Well said, mate.

 

Pushed a backside floater a little too long.....went to straighten out....board flipped over ......fin to the ass! Been cut all over,board smashes to the face and body, tweaked neck from getting pitched, pulled muscles I didn't know I had ,but having a double sized black and blue butt cheek just sucks! Thank God I was wearing a wetty or I'd have another crack! So basically I got nothing!

 

I think the worse injury story was from Gerry Lopez at Pipe last century. Some doof interfered with his take off. Gerry got pitched, board hit first, fins up. Gerry tried to kick it out of the way, fin cut foot, tail went up arse.

 

Damn man that is awful! How do you pinch off a lunker with with stiches there? Liquids only for a month?

 

Shoulder tendonitis from the swimming motion in surfing. Been nagging me for awhile - anyone else get this?

 

broken neck in 2006.

I win.

 

I sprained my foot doing a stupid Ollie off of a curb on a skateboard on the 1st. I have been to the er twice. Its definitely not broken but second doc says I gotta stay off of it for 10 days. Had to burn one week of vacation.
Last April I went surfing two days in a row when it was good. By the end of the second day my arm felt like it was gonna fall off. Guess it's that shoulder tendonitis thing. Been thinking about going to a physical Therapist. I have been trying to go easy on it. Laps in the pool seem to help a little. No nad injuries thank God!

 

Surfed a nice ride in at Spring Lake the weekend of the Belmar Pro 2012 -- went off the back, the board caught the backwash and smacked me right in the face. 29 stitches around the eye socket at Monmouth County ER, two layers of newskin and I was back in the water three hours later. Pic was taken three days after.