Thruster to 5-fin conversion: Step by Step

Heard from a few people who have custom Hypto Kryptos that the board is unbelievable as a quad and thought some of you you may interested in the process of adding a few boxes. Basically, I'm going to add two rear boxes as I'll be outta the water for a bit due to a shoulder issue.

I have had a few of Hayden's quads and it seems that he has more of a McKee set-up. However his measurements are a bit different than the McKee Quattro. Consequently, measured out the front box from the rail, tail widths, distance off the rail, etc. rear fins on both boards are with 1/16" of each other from the tail and same distance from the stringer/rail. So my set up should be relatively similar...



McKees dims recommend a distance of 6 1/2" between the rear fins...a bit too wide compared to the Shred Sled King as well as the shred sled I had...took the dims from the rail and is more consistent with my other measurements from previous boards. I prefer of a more thruster oriented quad and found a pretty healthy comprise taking the dims off the rails--about 2 1/2" to the center of e rear fin.



The pic below shows both measurements for what is on found on the Shred Sled King (nt., line closest to center fin) and the measurements off the rail (line closest to rail).



I'm going to route out and set the fins later today...more pics to come...

 

Hey NJ...yea my buddy who has a Hypto is I the same camp as you seriously interested. Given I've had this hypto for about 1 1/2 years...I feel I can give it a good shake to see if it works and don't mind experimenting on it. Additionally, I'm a quad fan and believe it'll work out--the shop where I ordered my shred sleds said that rep has one and loves it. Here to hoping the same thing occurs...

Regarding the placement...I don't disagree with that perspective. However, the board is pretty tracky with the pin tail as is...in smaller waves the board bogs a bit unless you move up quite a bit. However, the main reason for going with the MCKee is that I've have been riding that placement for a while on other quads and feel most comfortable on it (except that is on round tails). Jumping back on a few fishes (15"+ tails) I have with a more rail oriented placement always felt it was a bit too twin fin ish--without sacrificing that drive--really round turns no loss of speed, etc. if that makes sense--great drive but almost a bit too loose at times...however the fishes I have I only use speed dialers/cut-always. Hoping for the McKee' "happy medium" with this board given how tight the tail pulls in...well see... But I do agree risking it a bit here but still pretty curious...

 

@ Pea...yup NJ is right on the money...front fins are toed in 1/4" rears are about and 1/8"...maybe a bit less...

 

Nope...sand and then route right through the glass...pics to come.

Also NJ...I love the AM template...however I'm totally addicted to the Machados--same template a bit bigger fin, but the flex is unreal compared to the RTM/glass. Rears I usually run 375s...(thermotech...RTM, etc.). Best set-up I've found so far...I'm about 5'11" and 165lbs as well. I have a set of the Hayden and used them in the hypto, but the felt too stiff...I'll throw them in my step up though when I really need some drive. Hayden does have a rear fin...has a schism tar twist but I've never seen it anywhere...love to give it a whirl. You can find it on his site.

 

Updating this thread...finally got some time to route out the fins. My sheds totally packed right now with boards to repair etc., and it freezing as it's not insulated--my vent van doesn't help too much either with regulating the temp. Consequently, I'll do my glassing inside tonight ;-)

Anyway onto the pics, I'm a bit unconventional when routing fins post-lam or when doing a repair, etc. I always clamp down the jig. I've had too many issues when the jig moves as the glass is too slick and mess up my route or shred my finger. Consequently, I clamp (nt., the additional pics) that bad boy down--when doing a pre-lam cut on a blank the blank has enough friction that it's usually not a problem as well leveling out the jig is so much easier with tension...just an FYI. Further, I always level out my racks regardless of the fin install, etc. and make sure that the jig itself is relatively level as well. Nt., the pics below...for some perspective...




Next the routing...most know this, but always make sure you have the collar in for rear routes--forgotten this more than once...also, I have seen some homemade future jigs and they're not worth it...if you're going to go for it and do this...just buy the real deal. As you can see with the collar this bad boy is well used and I've hit it with the router a few times to the detriment of a few of my fingers. Next route...the placement jig is easy (clear plastic piece...nose side toward the nose and rear towards the tail make sure the marks line up! Then...just route away...I usually go with the deeper base route first and then the flange route. No reason just preference. After I put the jig, and clamp, on the other side and again route away...





As you can tell...I didn't sand the board...reason why is I didn't want to lose my placement marks and I didn't have much time today. I'll sand it tonight prior to glassing it.

Both came out perfectly...about a 1/16" of the flange sticking above the glass...should sand out really well once I glass over it. More to come...