Who got good surf today?

i...did not.

checked the usual spots mid-morning(ish) & found them disorganized & washing through from the rarely-seen outer bars, so i decided to check a rarely surfed break that tends to be more manageable when the more well-known breaks get like this, but can feature a grinding paddle out & hellacious drift. i generally like it b/c it's a challenging break. not easy to get out, a wide playing field when you do, & difficult to line up. it doesn't attract much of a crowd as you can imagine. it looked clean, more organized, & shack-tastic, & no one was out, so i decided to give it a go. got rejected on my first attempt at paddling out, succeeded in getting pinned at the edge of the bar & got swept 1/4 mile down the beach. bailed out, hiked back to my original paddle out point, & studied it a bit longer. attempt #2 popped me out the back pretty easily. better timing & a friendly rip helped w/ that. caught a wave almost immediately that was ok, but showed what was available. didn't catch another wave for 90 min or so as i drifted down the bank dodging clean up sets & being just out of position on a number of good ones. finally got another wave & just hung it up, exhausted. i was a good mile or more down the beach. at least it was nice out. if it had been 20° colder, i probably would've puked from the pain of the ice cream headache i'd have gotten trying to paddling out the first time & quit then.
right rotator cuff is now tweaking; i was hoping to catch tomorrow's leftovers, but i'm questioning the wisdom of that now. i've had issues w/ my right shoulder since i injured it snowboarding in 2001, but i think i spurred this by over extending at the gym earlier this week. gave it 2 days of rest in anticipation of this swell, but that doesn't seem to have mattered.

you win some, you lose some. or so i'm told.

 

I did...for a brief moment. First ride, jacked up fast, quick barrel, rode to face and out back before it swallowed me. Next wave I popped up and knew i couldn't make the drop or the angle, so i jumped off top. Got thrown around and one of my fins sliced through my 5 ml and into the muscle of my bicep. So bummed. Wish it could have happened after 3 hours.

 

stuck at work...up at dawn for work... was hoping to get out before dark, but it looks like I will be here till dark...off tomorrow, hopefully some decent leftovers.

 

Just finished PT for my shoulder NJ...therapist told me to ease back into it. Felt pretty weak for most the session...can totally relate to shoulder issues.

As for the surf...4-6' and clean...definitely fun!. Surfed for an hour...got a couple waves and a sick barrel. Probably touch it again tomorrow...great getting into the water after two months...

 

That pic makes it look bigger than 4-6, brother.

Surfed low to mid on the incoming this morning at a spot I've been surfing a lot lately. Today was the best I've gotten in in a while. Overhead sets, loooong chest to head high walls, and a handful of nice tubes. Beautiful day. Smiles on everybody's faces.

 

it was good

 

Life was good today in c fl. Besides taking my rail to the bridge of my nose. Great day.

 

Surfed 2 hours caught 2 waves, proned in. Not Good.

 

Today was a good day...

Perfect weather, fun waves, new (used) board, new spot (to me), wife and baby went to see friends. Yeah, I took full advantage of it. You know it was a good day when you see this after your session.

Icing on the cake is this homemade IPA I'm currently enjoying.

Oh, and I didn't have to use my A-K.

 

hell no. was stuck at work all day, mind you i work on a fishing boat, so i was watching the swell breaking all day. freaking pissed, got back into the dock around 3, finished cleaning the boat around 4. i paddled out at a spot in MoCo that is very similar to a point break (im sure most of you monmouth county dudes can figure out pretty fast where im talking about). the drift became real fast and as the tide was running out, waves got way too hollow/steep and just dropping in beating the close out was rediculous. so bummed on my surf this evening, didn't get one solid wave.

 

yeah I was out down in South Jersey, it was actually really good here just before dark. But I didn't have time during the day so I paddled out pretty early this morning and what a paddle that was. Fought like hell just to get out the back, and when I finally did I had enough strength to wipe out on the first wave I want for. End of session, really feeling like a chump but on the plus side I did get a lot of work done today. Tomorrow I'm going to grab the leftovers. Man I feel like an out of shape shoob

 

I did. Maryland was firing today and for the first time in the water for a while felt pretty good, if a bit rusty. A few pics from around midday

 

Beautiful pictures!

 

Definitely got out there too...only complaint is that the sun sat behind a cloud my entire 3 hour session...not bad if that's my only complaint...oh, and like a total kook i was ll stoked on the warm weather and decided to walk down to the beach without zipping up my wetsuit...then proceeded to forget that I didn't zip it and got totally flushed for about the first hour and kept wondering why but waves were as decent as the weather so I didn't think too much of it until a nice guy let me know that i was unzipped...so it turned a warm March day into a cold January day...oh well, still waiting for my iny to become an outy again...probably will just in time for first light tomorrow AM!

 

Nice pics Mitchell. Got it REALLY good in the afternoon. Just had the sinus drip into my raviolis. Best day I have had personally in a while. Hitting the leftovers spot in the AM at the expense of my son's wrestling tourney in OC NJ.

 

Gary Williams checking in! Disorganized and fast as hell and I got thrashed a bunch but got three good rides

 

Mitchell you suck! Just kidding...just jealous...I work right by a i and was stuck all day at work...watched the dam cam and was jonesan to get wet. Was hoping to at least get out of work by 5 to get an hour session...wasn't meant to be!

 

Broke my board first wave Went over the falls and broke my leash, it washed into the jetty removing all the fins and creasing the middle beyond repair. Sick waves all day though, but i only got to watch. Im not too upset though, i was in a bad spot(drifted onto the jetty after losing board) and got lucky the waves turned off. Had to swim around the jetty in the rip to get in. Just happy to be in one piece

 

Couldn't break away until 4PM. Went out at Dam Neck. Brought a different, shorter board to try getting dialed in on, but I wasn't out long. By then the wind had picked up and things turned choppy. Maybe an occasional 4-5 ft. Air temps quickly dropped from low 60s to 46 by time I left. Try again tomorrow AM.