Funny to hear you tell that strory about Matapalo...We were there about 4/5 years ago and while I didnt catch any 18 footers on the face I did have to endure an abnoxiously long set at Backwash when I got caught inside. No wave was over 6/7 feet but there must have been at least 8 waves in the set. No lie and I had to dive them all. By the time it was over it had almost washed me ashore....When we were there there had been puma sightingsin the area so we were told to be very careful. All the little kids that live out there were on strict order to stay close to home...anyway I drank a lot of Cana one night and fell asleep on the deck outside. Woke up early morning and thought to myself that wasnt a very wise move.
that was the best day I ever experienced.it wasn't the size,lack of crowds,or wonderful sandbars,but how consistant it was.every wave I seen was a perfect a frame spitting in both ways.I never seen it like that without closeouts and long lulls.I seen a lot of people get rejected in the shorebreak trying to paddle out.it was a true test.lol,I was where the kook who got rescued from the staties helicopter was.funny thing was the guy was trying to talk shyt to me because I told him don't paddle out near that crowd,go here and he mumbled some jibberish and ended up getting rescued on the best day of the century.its one thing if ur getting pounded on the inside and need desperate help,but when ur in the lineup,safe,and ur too afraid to catch a wave in then u get what u deserve.I was laughing for months after that,never seen the dude again after that
Matapalo is weird like that. Giant sets coming after an hour or so. Once we went to the NW side of the mountain from Matapalo to Carate. Got up early and Expanded our minds. By the time we got to the beach we were full on expanded. I couldn't get out. I'd almost get out and bet beat back to dry sand. My buddy would catch a wave, just lay on the board and get sucked out without paddling. I'd get behind him stroking my azz off as he laid on his board. He'd get out, and I'd get a wave on the head again and again until I was ashore. I finally got out several hours later when the sun was at it's highest. I stumble to the shore line, looked up at the sun in time to see a bird o prey swooping down at me. It must have thought I was a monkey until it get really close. I thought I heard it scream "Oye! Carajo!" when it realized how big I was.
