How big was it?

chest to head high. both times I got stabbed in the foot with fins.

 

I'm lucky and have never been seriously injured in my life. Football, lacrosse, surfing, judo, climbing buildings and trees, skateboarding, yada yada yada. But whenever I come out of the water with bumps and bruises or a nice cut it seems to be on smaller days.

 

i got washed onto the rocks at monahans dock one time by a headhighish wave. I was high and dry until the next set washed me into the inlet. Somehow no injuries.

 

Head high day. Lip hit me in the head, (I'm 6' 3") and the board flipped and I landed on the fins (quad setup) and I had a big slice on my ass and the fins boxes went through the deck of the board

 

Worst wave ever: it was exactly 5'2" and took me out for a quarter mil when I divorced her evil arse.

 

mine wasn't THAT bad. 5 or 6 footer, fell on takeoff, ka-bam (either nose or fin) to my lip/jaw,
28 stitches later and a slice or two from a cosmetic surgeon i'm back winning beauty contests.

 

effin lol! yup shorties do pack a punch! Mine was a lil hottie from Louisiana, she liked to kick me in the shins!

 

Every time I ride my single fin longboard I think about this scenario. Death by 9" fin to the ass is not how I want to go, contrary to what some members on here may tell you...

 

Knee high, broke my nose

 

I cracked a rib on a rib high day, ironic right? Separate incident, on a slightly overhead day tried to pull in and got guillotined, got a fin cut on the shin that looked like a divot from a 9 iron, and a second fin cut on the thigh that I could stick a finger in up to the first knuckle. Just about my entire leg was bruised for about a month after that one. Shin could not be stitched because the wound was too wide.

 

broke toes on the largest day I ever surfed. But the WORST injuries ive had were on smaller days. face planted a reef on a 3 foot day. Got speared in the forehead by the nose of my board on a 4-5 foot beach break. Got pitched over the falls at low tide, hit the bottom and started pushing back up just to have the nose of the board slice into the water like a butter knife and jack me right in the dome.

Worst injury ever was the gnarly staph infection that I got from surfing after a bad rain in San Diego. surf was about head high and I ended up being out of the water for a Month and couldnt walk for a few days... gnarly.

 

about knee to waist high- ALWAYS on the small days...

took the fins to the head... even with my hooded 4/3... still had to get staples...

 

oh man dude, that sucks! i've never actually SEEN anyone get worked there like that but i counted a holdown there for like 12 seconds

 

i got worked pretty good in NC last thursday night. It doesn't look big but it was 4.5 feet at 11 seconds. Heres a pic:

 

among everyone I know, the smaller days are the ones when everyone gets banged up. Probably because you're paying less attention

 

Tore a knee ligament on a chest high day. Put me in a brace for about 3 months.

 

That and you're not afraid of getting worked on a small day so you goof around more. (speaking for myself and my friends)

 

November 1998 59th street pier OCNJ 6'0" Single Fin Surfboards Hawaii Aquarius......Surf board flush to the side of the head Blew my eardrum out had to crawl back to the car. Almost drowned on a knee high day.

 

Same happened here....fark that hurt, but that's not the worst, a head high day, late take off and had to bail, board came back and sharp side of the fin went in between the second to the smallest toe and about severed both toes off, was grounded for about a month after that...not fun.