Removing stratches on log with Gloss/Polish finish

2000 grit wet-n-dry sandpaper, follow up with rubbing compound, then polishing compound.

 

My shaper friend said if you can feel it with your nail, it probably leaks.

 

pretty much any of them will work, but there's a reason that Meguair's is expensive...it is good. You won't need a buffer, which would work better. Without knowing the depth of your scratch, I can only give you my best internet judgment.

 

I have always used this stuff made by 3m that is found by the bondo in advanced auto store- it comes in a gray/green bottle. it works better then the rubbing compound found next to the waxes by car wax in an auto store. But lately I have been using this stuff called Buff Magic which I actually like better! But it more expensive and is a marine product found at west marine. If it's only a one time use- get the 3m stuff.

And second- more important- I don't know how deep your scratch is... But personally I would just try rubbing compound before you take sand paper to your new board...sand paper will ruin your finish right away where as rubbing compound can take away the appearance of a huge scratch without messing up the rest of the finish. I wouldn't try to get the scratch out the whole way- if it's deep you will compromise the integrity of the glass job...

 

If scratches are real shallow a simple wipe on and wipe off of acrylic sealer might be enough to hide them.

If deep: Tape off the scratch closely. Wipe on a few coats of secret sauce to fill the crack. (Behr Acrylic Concrete Sealer or in a pinch you could use Future acrylic floor finish) Let dry over night. Lightly sand with 600 or 800 while still taped off to get close to original surface. We don't want to get into the original gloss here just remove excess acrylic. Remove tape. Wet sand or scrape perimeter lightly with a razor blade to remove material outside the scratch being very careful of surrounding gloss. Again we just want to remove the excess acrylic without getting into the original gloss. Wet sand 1200 to 2000 being careful. Again, our goal here is to just remove the excess acrylic while creating as few tiny scratches as possible. Hit briefly with high speed polisher to blend and bring back shine.

If damage is on the rail edges of the nose be very careful with the polisher. You can burn through real easy.

If you use any polish at all in this case use a swirl remover. Nothing stronger. We don't want to mess up surrounding gloss or leave the surrounding gloss more dull than the original gloss. If you finish with rubbing compound you will leave anywhere you do that less glossy than the original super glossy finish and it will stick out like a sore thumb particularly if its a darker color tint. It will look like a hazy gloss next to what the pro who finished your board did.

You do not want to burn through or rough up the existing gloss coat. You just want to fill in the scratch, blend it and move on with your life. Keep in mind that anytime you sand or polish you are removing material. Its like a haircut......its easy to remove material but not so easy to put it back if you get too deep with sanding scratches or compound. Expose the weave and you will be cursing.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/BEHR-Premium-1-Gal-Wet-Look-Sealer-98501/202263927