Just looked up at the sky tonight... right before it turned dark. Should be a little wave tomorrow, so I got my daughter all amped up for a late morning session... just when the tide and wind could be right. She's so souped she might not even sleep much tonight... Started thinking about how good it is to be a surfer... here and now. When you get right down to the fundamental elements of why we all surf, it's really about how simple... and beautiful... surfing is. Funny word, isn't it... "beautiful"...? So funny that sometimes we're afraid to even use it. I think that's what the basic drive about surfing is... beauty. Not everyone may recognize it as that.. but I really believe that's what it is. "Beauty." There... I said it again. The beauty of surfing takes a lot of different forms... Color. Light. Movement. The human form... The struggle for perfection within that shifting, metamorphic, living thing that is our only pursuit... the wave itself, and our momentary, transient place within it. Here and gone... The simplicity of the act... the economy of physical motion required to achieve our ultimate reward. I don't think there is a more ultimate expression of beauty than the minimalism of surfing. To catch a wave requires the most efficient physical motion... down to how you hold your fingers as you paddle... or the precision of a bottom turn on a knee high dribbler... or timing that little warble in the lip that becomes the difference between frustration and satisfaction. In fact, the beauty of surfing could actually be distilled right down to the finality of the wave itself... so symbolic of our own worldly existence. We're here... then we're gone. The world not knowing the difference, really. Tomorrow could be hit or miss. But I know... right now... either way... it's all good.
Solid post, thanks for taking the time to share that. It certainly is the beauty of it all that draws me in and keeps me coming back, the stoke is high anytime I see a wave, not riding one, just seeing it. Riding the wave is the icing on the cake. So much to take in while out there. The sun, sky, clouds, creatures all around, in and out of the water, it never gets old, it's different every session. Nothing better than a solo sunrise session to appreciate it all.
That was a great post. Once you have a child you see the world differently. Also, once a parent or sibling dies you also are a forever changed person. The ocean is also constantly changing. It appears to be angry at times instilling fear or throwing some love with an unforgettable ride, just like the rollercoaster of life. The end of a wave's life arriving at our shore where our ride begins reminds my of the cycle of our lives. I didn't mean to hijack the thread, I just agree with your post. I feel we are connected with the ocean. Our lives face obstacles, hardships and eventually we move onto the next world wherever that may be.. Just like a wave tries to form, survive and hopefully get to the coast before sharing the joy of the ride before it dies itself. Wow, that was deep. Hope it didn't sound too off the wall. I just think we should enjoy the here and now. I know I am. I will pass my feelings to my son and he will continue sharing this cycle/connection. Beauty is a great word to describe it because it's hard to really put it into words.
Just remember God created it! So thankful to be a surfer, but even more thankful to be a C----T Follower.Thank you JC! Watch the ocean for 10 minutes, if you want turn down the sound. Nobody on this forum can paint the sunrise like HE can. http://youtu.be/_V1w5bG6qvQ
Well said. The simplistic beauty of sliding across energy. and the satisfaction that goes along with it… its a gift that not many people can ever appreciate…
Feel the flow... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OAs2PBL1RsA Sorry, couldn't resist. Enjoyed your post.
Wayne, what if Leonardo DaVinci is living one of his reincarnations as a surfer and is on this forum? He paints pretty sweet ay? That would be wild man, wild.
Agreed, I always tell my buddies when were out there take all this in.The waves,the salt air,the sounds,looking back at the beach.Its like when your driving down the street and when your favorite song comes on and you get amped up and for some reason your mind wonders and the next thing you know your songs over.Enjoy ever moment your out there and don't take it for granted.
Well said! DP session this am (6/26/14). 5:15 to 6:30am. Water about 62F, cooler than it has been but refreshing in trunks. Always worth a go in the am, even if it's flat. Ryan
I think about this every morning when checking the waves before work. After being locked out in the middle of the country for a year, watching a sunrise over the water instills a calmness I could never achieve while in the mountains. I went for a swim the other day, jumped off a rocky out cropping into one of the best right hand lineups in southern RI. I swam and swam, cut my feet up all over the rocks, ripped my wetsuit, and still felt lucky. Awesome thread
Just lost my son to leukemia. We both learned to surf when he was 15, I was 46. Of all the things we did together, apart from our faith in God, surfing was one of the greatest. Whether it was storm surge or just mellow dawn patrol, we were like brothers in the surf. What a joy it was to share that experience. If you have children grab every moment you can with them, but definitely encourage them to surf with you.
My deepest condolences man, seriously. Thank God you guys shared that time together. LBCrew, awesome post, awesome thread, and I couldn't agree more. I'm personally amazed on a daily basis at the beauty of the natural world, whether it be a spectacular sunset, extra clear skies, or the fleeting moments when you spot something in the woods and the whole thing just suddenly feels alive. Beauty is the word. But waves are special, because we as waterfellers see that same beautiful perfection in them yet we can interact with them and tap into that special energy. Anytime I'm in one of the aforementioned situations I become overwhelmed with gratitude, even moreso as I get older. “In beauty may I walk. All day long may I walk. Through the returning seasons may I walk. On the trail marked with pollen may I walk. With grasshoppers about my feet may I walk. With dew about my feet may I walk. With beauty may I walk. With beauty before me, may I walk. With beauty behind me, may I walk. With beauty above me, may I walk. With beauty below me, may I walk. With beauty all around me, may I walk. In old age wandering on a trail of beauty, lively, may I walk. In old age wandering on a trail of beauty, living again, may I walk. It is finished in beauty. It is finished in beauty. ” -Navajo wisdom Hayduke you clearly missed the booties on cobblestone thread yesterday
My condolences. I'm sure you have great memories enjoying the ocean together. Children bring out the children in us and make us feel young again. I couldn't think of a better way of connecting with a son or daughter than riding a wave in the ocean.
Sorry to hear that, God bless you and your family.Glad you were able to share the stoke with your son thou.
