lost the stoke

Heading down to RI myself tonight. Looks decent for tomorrow morning. This guy sounds like a bummer.. Get stoked on life man.. waves are just one of the many aspects of life worth waking up for. I'll be on it at 5am first light.

 

Funny I'm the complete opposite. The one thing that kills my stoke is crowds. This evening for example a spot a few blocks from my house was pretty good considering its July. Unfortunately there were 30 people scrapping over a peak where there were enough waves for 8 at most. Other nearby spots weren't very good and had small packs on them too. I went home and tinkered with a surfboard a bit and now I'm on here......its still daylight.

I'll take NJ winter cold and no crowds any day over July heat and mobs of people at my home breaks. Looking forward to the 3rd week of August when the crowds thin as college students and shoobies begin packing it in. Then around Halloween when the water temp starts to tumble further thinning the crowds. Then after Thanksgiving when it really clears out.

 

Bros, well my intuition that driving 3 hours each way for a 1.5 hour sunset sesh would re-energize my stoke was right on. Best session of my life. Nailed every takeoff in fading chest to shoulder swell and got back up to the lip on two of them. May have even smacked it on one. Such a good decision to charge tonight.

 

Bro, you're gonna be stoked. It cleaned up pretty well tonight there and will only get cleaner. Size dropped some but you should have waist-stomach and clean all day.

 

Got out of the water an hour ago, having a beer now. Mornin' is looking fun.


And to the OP, move and do something else for awhile. If surfing means anything to you, you'll get the itch again no worries. If not, go enjoy the mountains, rivers, and micro breweries scattered about this great country's interior

 

Nice bro. The beach that is next after the first was straight up packed but highly functional. Couple a shredding wahines too. Always good for our circulatory systems.

 

I'm glad I haven't lost it yet, hopefully never will. I too will surf the weak stuff when the water is this warm. Water never gets too cold here, so I'm good all year. Definitely love the warmer water, even though it means more crowds. A nice first session after a flat spell is always energizing for me as well.

 

You just gotta keep going and it comes back i had a rough couple of years my best friend who got me into surfing died in 2008 from drugs then i went down that same path in 2010 i lost my liscence for 2 years and i didn't get into the water that much and had no one to surf with it took awhile to get used to surfing by myself but eventually i cleaned myself up got off drugs and booze and this past year i feel more and more stoked after every session, i really couldn't imagine my life without it, and now that i frequent the same spots at lbi i'm starting to get to know a lot of the regulars down there even though i'm always rolling solo i've been running into some familiar faces which is cool. It did take awhile to get the stoke back though i had to go back to the fun board for a little while two years ago, then i bought a hypto krypto and i'm glad i did because it made surfing so much more fun for me.

 

Good for you man. That's awesome. Glad you're back and cleaned up, life is good!

 

i like to surf