Biggest East Coast Wave

Discussion in 'Mid Atlantic' started by davincimoon, Dec 9, 2008.

  1. Shakagrom

    Shakagrom Well-Known Member

    589
    Aug 22, 2008
    :rolleyes:
    cricket.... cricket
     
  2. smithtim

    smithtim Active Member

    35
    Sep 24, 2008
    I think that's what they said about Mavericks a while back then some guy name Clark decided....

    I'm sure there is a spot on the EC you've just got to do some digging and thinking... deep water rapildy into shelf then figure out the swell / wind equation and finally have some huge BALLS...
     
    Last edited: Dec 11, 2008

  3. BonerSurfs

    BonerSurfs Well-Known Member

    504
    Apr 14, 2007

    That is not 20 foot dude. Sorry to be that guy, but thats more like 10-12. If it was 20 foot, it would close out. Ive surfed frisco pier that size on a few occasions, hell I was probably out on that day. A 20 foot wave would close out in frisco, no questions asked, those bars just cant handle that kind of size.
     
  4. wbsurfer

    wbsurfer Well-Known Member

    Mar 30, 2008
    yeah thats something ive never been able to grasp is why does the measurements for pipeline or even hawaii to be more precist always different for the rest of us..
     
  5. Shakagrom

    Shakagrom Well-Known Member

    589
    Aug 22, 2008
    I believe Hawaiians speak "wave height" in terms of face height which would have to do with the back of the wave. So a 10 ft. wave here would be a 3-4 ft. wave there I think.
    Correct me if I'm wrong, I've always been a little confused about this as well.
     
  6. BonerSurfs

    BonerSurfs Well-Known Member

    504
    Apr 14, 2007
    man, i cant help but correct u here. Hawaiians measure the wave from the back, meaning they don't measure the wave face. If you have ever surfed some sizeable surf, you would know what they mean. The back of the wave literally has height. Go look at any picture of jaws from behind the lineup , you will just see a huge mound of water, that almost kinda looks like a big wave, but its really just the back of a monster jaws macker.

    Not saying ive surfed jaws or anything, but i think if u have ever surfed anything over say 8 foot, its pretty easy to notice that the wave backs have some height to them also.
     
  7. Shakagrom

    Shakagrom Well-Known Member

    589
    Aug 22, 2008
    ok. exactly thats why I said correct me if I'm wrong. But if you read the post, I did say that Hawaiians measure from the back of the wave which means that the wave height is actually larger than the Hawaiian estimated wave height. Hence when I said the same wave on the east coast is considered a smaller wave in Hawaii.

    I'm not a bragger but yes I have surfed waves over 8 ft. I just got the terms mixed up. That's why I said "correct me if I'm wrong" and "i think" because i wasn't sure.

    "The "Hawaiian Method"
    The "Hawaiian method" proposes that wave size be measured from the back.
    It usually results in an estimation less than half that of a face measurement.
    Coming into use during the 1960's, the 'Hawaiian method apparently was adopted as pyhscological intimidation of inexperienced visitors, see histoical notes above.
    This "method" was reinforced by the inceased use of wave buoys, whose measuements often equated the "Hawaiian method".
    See below.
    It gained some popular use in the 1990's with a resurgence in media attention on big wave riding and the development of tow-in surfing that put a premium on performance extremes.
    "


    http://www.surfresearch.com.au/awaveheight.html

    take a look, thats what I was trying to say but I said face height accidentally because I was confused.
     
  8. Salty J

    Salty J Well-Known Member

    194
    Jun 13, 2008

    Excellent point even though I posted this a page ago. Of course you Delmarva types aren't the sharpest knives in the drawer are you?:D:rolleyes:

    I was on surfline and came across this great point of reference.

    http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/mid-season-north-shore-injury-update-body-count_21019/photos/1/

    The surfline feature is an injury update from the north shore. Check out picture 5 with the video clip and see what Hawaiians (Torrey Meister) call 4ft. I believe it would equate to crap your pants surf in Ocean City, Maryland. What would you guys say.... double overhead?
     
  9. Zansurf

    Zansurf Well-Known Member

    201
    May 12, 2008
    The only thing that pisses me off is that it doesnt always make sense.

    A. How do they measure the back of a wave accurately?
    B. What about slabs like Teahupoo where the back is pretty much 0 ft and the face is like 10 to 15?
     
  10. davincimoon

    davincimoon Well-Known Member

    149
    Jul 31, 2008
    The bascom, Hawaiian or whatever standards of measurement for wave height are all semantics and created with their own underlying intentions for measuring regional environments, (Hawaii has such a consistency and class of big wave, i.e. Jaws, that they are forced to call everything else smaller, in my opinion) Call me old fashioned but a wave can be measured by the face, Hawaii might say four feet but if your dropping 10 feet down into the face of the wave after the takeoff then is it four or 10 feet? I argue the the latter because we're not surfing the back of waves...But hey that's them and we're not in Hawaii right now, (see your wetsuit)

    Whatever the case may be, I think it is safe to say that the East Coast has seen Big Waves and maybe just maybe has yet to find a truly consistent big break that can handle the huge swells but you have to believe there is something out there. Couple of months back some guy posted pics of him tow in surfing the Diamond shoals well off shore from Buxton I think. There are a lot of sand bars where the gulf stream and labrador current meets. God only knows what is firing off out there when the big bad Tropics are passing by...Whose got the balls and tools to truly check it out? All I'm saying before someone says a ridable 30 foot wave on the East Coast is impossible, ask yourself; have you explored all the possibilities?


    - All you need is surfboard and a dream -
     
  11. donson

    donson Active Member

    31
    Jun 27, 2008
    ^ spot on holmes
     
  12. JerseySurfRat89

    JerseySurfRat89 Well-Known Member

    256
    Oct 6, 2007
    4 ft!!!?.
    .
     
  13. GoodVibes

    GoodVibes Well-Known Member

    Jun 29, 2008
    I'd hate to see an 8 foot day there.Is he serious?
     
  14. rgnsup

    rgnsup Well-Known Member

    Jun 23, 2008
    "It wasn't that big that day" - BAHAHAHAHAH...just wow.
     
  15. OCSpongR

    OCSpongR Well-Known Member

    75
    May 25, 2006
    That guy that dropped in on Dillon in #9 needs his a$$ kicked. TOTAL KOOK MOVE!

    And yes 4' Hi is like 2+OH here.
    I just don not inderstand the reasoning of measuring a wave by its backside. I mean a below level waves like chopes is what 6 in ch back 15 foot face.lol

    Faces matter imo.:rolleyes:
     
  16. xgen70

    xgen70 Well-Known Member

    785
    May 25, 2006
    yes, so true Jason..They also had an article about the injuries at pipe as of late, and one vid shows a seriously bad drop in that did lead to a injury. You can imagine what might have happened to the guy that did that there, right in front of everyone.

    Must suck to paddle in to what you know is going to be one serious ass kicking by the local crews there. Guess it is just best to take your medicine and hope you can walk away on your own:eek:
    Drop ins are so not cool, just like your latest vid of that spot shows.

    Also, I think they did stop giving size in terms of the back of the wave in HI, due to tourons almost dying when they hear wave size of only 4 to 5 feet, from the back of a wave. The tourons show up and go swimming when it is really DOH, HI size. So they changed it to avoid being sued, from what I was told.
     
  17. bbdottk

    bbdottk Active Member

    35
    May 27, 2007
    If I'm not mistaken, Micah posted the history behind the "Hawaiian" measurement system a year back or so.

    The Hawaiians were trying to find a way to make their lineups less crowded, so they thought that if they made it seem like their waves were smaller than they actually were, fewer people would paddle out. On surf reports, they began to measure waves from their back side, with the hope that when visitors heard, "3 foot and clean," they would not bother to paddle out, even though they were 6-8' faces.

    As for the wave that made this thread so damn long, I'm pretty sure you can see a guy on the near jetty. Assuming he is six feet tall, it looks like that wave is between 10 and 12 foot. That'd make sense for Squan Inlet... there's no place in New Jersey that could hold a wave that clean looking at bigger than 20 foot, and that wave is by no means breaking as far out as some of you guys are saying... it looks around the 10-12' range, maybe 15' at biggest. The thing is, though... that's effing huge. Before people go complaining about a wave not being thirty feet tall, remember that we aren't used to waves being HUGE like that.

    As a size reference, you could stand up in whatever room you're in. Chances are it's an 8' ceiling, give or take. Apply that to a wave, and you realize that 8 feet is damn big. For a 30 foot wave, try going to a school that has 3 floors. Stand outside by the wall. That's around 30 feet. That's enormous in the form of a wall of water, and no place on the east coast that I know of can hold it. It's not like that's a big deal, though. We just need to be honest with ourselves... the continental shelf extends too far for us to see the kind of swell that Hawaii, the South Pacific, the West Coast, or the West Coast of Europe sees. Doesn't mean we don't have intense swells, just that they're not as intense as Chopes, North Shore, or Jaws!

    Delaware has put up some mean looking 8-12 foot waves, North Jersey has had some as well, and I've seen OBX waves up to 15 foot, but that's pretty much it.
     
  18. absurfer

    absurfer Active Member

    44
    Sep 10, 2008

    I waz in st thomas for the 30ft easter swell of 08 and an outer island off hull bay had reeling right handers at the 30 ft barrelling range just perfect it can probably hold there up to 40 ft or bigger
     
  19. bbdottk

    bbdottk Active Member

    35
    May 27, 2007
    I wasn't saying that the Atlantic couldn't produce that kind of swell. The islands' near topography allows for absurdly large waves; France, Spain, and Ireland have all seen insanely large waves, Puerto Rico holds some healthy swells as well. With that said, none of those places are east coast USA, as in Maine to Florida.

    In other words, we're not disagreeing.