What types of boards did you guys start out with and how long were you riding them? My progression has been as follows: Learned on a 9'0" foamie Rode an 8'2" soft-top for a couple sessions Currently own a 7'6"X23"X3" Ron Jon funboard - I've had the most fun on this board so far. Currently own a 6'8"X19.5"X2.5" Ron Jon egg shape. - Have had some good rides on it but I haven't been able to take it out on anything over 2 ft. Currently own a 6'4"X20"X2.5" Santa Cruz Swallowtail - I literally just picked up this board yesterday because it was a deal I couldn't resist. I am a little nervous that I won't be able to shred this as well as my other boards but I wanted something a little smaller to push myself. Here is my current quiver:
I was told if I didn't start on a longboard with no leash that I \"..shouldn't even bother learning.\" After a whole winter and summer on only a 9'6 with no leash I downgraded to a smaller single fin. Then a smaller twin. Now, when the conditions are right, I have a set up I like to ride for (almost) every condition NJ can offer. 9'8 (and 9'6) Log for when its lined up and less than waist high, 6ft fat stubby twin for the chest high mush ball days, 7'2 single for when its big and I don't feel like riding a smaller board, and of course the thruster for like.... 5 days a year/trips. My new years resolution this year was to NOT acquire anymore surfboards until I felt like I truly understood the ones I now own... I was silly/arrogant to think that would happen in a year. I am taking my time with every board, riding something when maybe I think I should be on something else... trying to gain a well rounded understanding of my local waves and what equipment I should be on. If I'm lucky, I'll be trying to figure it out the rest of my life. #surfsap 6'4 Fowler Stoker V Machine 6' Kookbox Archies Left 7'2 Bing Lovebird 9'6 KB Professor (traded for 6'1 KB DT twin) 9'6 KB Harrison Roach 9'8 KB The One.
i started out on a 6-0 rainbow by doug wright from cocoa, fl...wish i still had it btw, i was in ron jon (cocoa bch) 2 months ago and their store boards were $329. i was like "idgaf if it's a ron jon or not, for that price i'll buy one." couldn't find one i my size tho. ride the sc every chance you get and i'm pretty sure you will sell one of the other two.
They may not be quality but perfect for a new guy. I sold my soft-top for $200 and got both of those Ron Jons for a total of $225 and the funshape was brand spankin new.
Its one thing if the boards you own don't suit your style or body type but if they do... I think it can only be good for your mind, your body and your surfing to really give it your best shot at understanding what makes them work for you.
5'8" (guessing) Haut twin fin late 70s I believe I surfed it for about three summers. Second board was a 6'1" Seasoned thruster. That was early 80s. When I moved to the beach and started surfing year round in 1987 I got a 6'6" New Sun for the winter waves. At some point back then I picked up this 6'0" Rossborough which I liked at the time and now cant stand. Those four boards got me though my first several years.
My first was a 5'2" twin fin by Don Smith of Hawaii. I'm 6'5". My head was the only thing out of the water. I ate a lot of doo on that one. next was a 7' secret spot. Floatation is a plus, I found out.
Man, that 7'2 is right up my alley. Started on a 8'0 longboard, moved to a 6'0 swallow tail fishier shape, went to a 5'10 ci flyer, and am now riding a 5'7 JS and a 7'6 soft top that my neighbor gave to me. But that 7'2. Wow.
I agree on that 7'2" and its a single fin too. I really want a single fin to get a different feel. One day down the road.
single fin feels like a single fin. Limited depends on what you are looking for. wont be doing any huge schwacks or airs on a 7'2 but you can get a nice deep fast bottom turn and reach for the nose given the right wave.
