My padded boardbag has reflective outer material and it amazes me how cool my boards stay in there. My board being in the sun makes me a might nervous.
I hope not, it's looking like tonight and tomorrow more are going to be the window of opportunity. I'm heading out to Pilgrims late tonight hoping something will start to come in.
Some big sets for sure today, I had to pull back on a couple, how it was breaking on the sandbar didn't appeal to me. Heavy crowds as expected, but good vibes. These swells brings out some interesting characters. A couple of guys got dropped off by a boat in the lineup, and the boat anchored just outside. First time I've ever seen that
I was sponging it, but I hear ya, McLovin, on how these waves were breaking on the bar (near Daytona). I've wiped out maybe 1 time in the last 10 years boogie-boarding (keep in mind I only get to hit the beach 2 weeks every year, so no great feat), but today I got taken out 3 times within 15 minutes this morning by closeouts. These things look like they're going to shoulder, and then bam, it goes right to a pile-driving closeout. I pulled back on a bunch too before i went lip-diving.
Yeah, came in at noon today. I went out all morning, even though it was low tide. I have NEVER seen that kind of power and form here at a lower tide. It got better as the tide filled in, but it was incredible considering the tide situation. Chest high sets that were super fast, hollow and fun with great shape. Going to go out for round two in a couple hours once the tide fills in. Barely any wind, not a cloud in the sky. I was extremely happy with this mornings outcome. If you can get on it, go. Just looked at the Folly cam and it is definitely looking good. It's not DOH Irene mayhem, but it looks about as fun as it could be considering. go go go .
Surfed 16th from 7 til noon. Definitely dropping. Overhead and lining up easy 100 yard lefts and rights. Fun, Super Fun! Let these storms pass thru and surf some evening leftovers. Swell be gone tomorrow. Oh yeah did I forget to say Thank You JESUSSSSSSSS!
I saw four boats at blue tops 'till the Navy made them leave, guess the spot that shall not be named wasn't doing it (unlikely) or super crowded (very likely). The crowd seemed to dissipate right as the tide filled in and the barrels got more makeable. Good vibes around Mayport for sure the last few days considering the crowds... relatively few jackoffs, shoulder hoppers, clueless noobs, and drop-in artists.
Don't know if anyone else has checked cams (surfchex) right now but Topsail Island looks super fun with some size (head?). Can't jet out there because of work but maybe someone has a first hand account of conditions? Cape Fear look fun but much smaller. The Long Bay and the Lowcountry got skunked as far as I can see and hear. Any more story from the peanut gallery? Is this not a Bertha thread? Damn thing is rolling out at 22 MPH huffing N2O. I'm jealous of N. FL.
It's been good down here all day. Ideal conditions. Super fun. The washout is looking money right now.
yuuup, I got some word from a buddy of mine who can attest that Topsail was indeed the place to be! I don't regret going to Holden though...even though nowhere near Topsails size, it was so fun and super clean
I just watched about 10 perfect, hollow, head high barrels on the cam down here. I am gassed, but going out here again in a few. Looks crowded, but all the barrels I just watched were unridden.
