I live just East of Tampa so I have a 2hr drive to the E. Coast, and 45 min - 1hr to the Gulf. Having access to both coasts increases the odds of a rideable wave so very few days per year that I can't find a rideable wave somewhere, it's just that whole job thing that keeps getting in the way Mon - Fri, so I hit the Gulf after work before sundown for about 1-2hrs depending on time of year, sometimes it's dark by time i'm off so I can't go, and there aren't that many days that are rideable in the Gulf anyways, so it's very hit or miss. So what I end up doing is spending my weekends on the East side literally every single weekend, maybe 3 weekends a year I don't make it over at least one day a weekend. Most times we get a hotel Fri evening and spend all Saturday / Sunday to make the drive less of a hassle. I've done the boomerang countless times, going 2hrs each way and surfing for 4-6hrs all in one day. Tired drives home, but totally worth it. You just get conditioned to it eventually. But i'm tired of the drive, moving in a year or less if all goes as planned.
I feel bad for you guys that live far. I can see the ocean when I stick my head out my bedroom window. I couldn't live without that.
Bro I vaguely remember this. Didn't we have nearly a whole tread about you warming yourself up on the hand dryer at mcdonalds?
Forgot to mention I'll make the drive for a knee high day, if it's rideable i'm going. If you approach it with the right attitude and find purpose in every session then no wave is taken for granted. I see the small days as paddling and pop up practice, I challenge myself to extend the ride as long as possible before it dies out. Everything else is just icing on the cake. Big waves are like bonus waves to me, I don't expect em often but just enough to keep me hungry for more.
Hahaha. Good memory dude. I posted about the sandwich once but I don't know what thread. Not sure about the McDonald's part- ain't no Mc-D's near the breaks at Rock or LB. Maybe someone could chime in. Once though, my GF and I went to Fire Island for a weekend. I brought my board but the waves and weather were sh*t. We walked to the sunken forest (just a few miles) in light rain, and by the time we got there, we were drenched. We spent a while taking turns at the hand-dryer, attempting to dry our clothes. Those things really should have a 'super-hi' switch, because they're not nearly powerful enough to dry clothes (or heat sandwiches). That Dyson hand-blade sh*t might work though.
Bro I may not be the Rain Man that Gaff is but I'm half an anthology to all that's gone down at dis break in 18 months. That story was dope, maybe it wasn't Mcdonalds. Weren't we all amazed with the story though and asking what type of convo you had with the dude melting cheese on bread?
Quit surfing. It's what I did. I live 50 min away (no traffic) but it could be as much as an hour and a half with rush hour traffic. Where I work is even further away from the water. Tough to fit in the am/pm sessions. My first year working an office job I tried surfing after work or fitting in time on weekends but it ended in more frustration than anything because the little surf that I got wasn't enough to quench the thirst. And not surfing as much makes it hard to stay in shape, which decreases the enjoyment and length of time I stayed in the water. And finally, there's nothing worse than driving really far and missing the window of good conditions. Add to that limited daylight hours in the winter, inconsistent summers and working 60 hr weeks. I understand now why people go to gyms or play sports in leagues. Without surfing, you have to fill in the void with something to stay sane. I play soccer, jump rope and throw punches at a heavy bag. It helps. Three or four days a week I daydream about moving to California, Africa or Australia.
Right on dude, sounds like we have a similar situation, I don't get to travel quite as much out of FL as you do DC but we go somewhere every year for the past few years. Twice per year really. I think as long as we go somewhere every 6 months that has world class waves, I'll be able to live with that. As far as the chase and putting in the miles to the E. Coast, I gotta say those early mornings when it's pitch black out, 4-5am, cold and quiet, sometimes windy, sometimes raining, the fall / winter is the best, getting the boards loaded up while everybody else is sleeping and trying to not wake anybody by setting off my alarm, or slamming the doors to loud, dropping sh*t and saying F*ck too loud, those are some of the most fun times. Coming over the bridge from the mainland to the beach right as the sun is beginning to rise is a familiar picture in my mind and one I've grown fond of. It gives that session a certain feeling, I have a sense of gratitude, like an earned reward for putting in the work to get there. Each wave is that much more fulfilling. I sure hope when I move that I don't lose any of that. We'll still be 15 minutes from the ocean, so I guess I can still see those sunrise views coming over the bridge each morning....
My experience exactly - particularly this summer. Those little bumps or "windows of opportunity" that if you weren't there or just went by the reports or forecasts, you'd miss 'em. During the summer, one or two of my boards are on the wax-spotted roof of my car more often than not. I've been lucking out more that striking out. But any time on the water is not really striking out. Get some paddling in. Better than exercising indoors in a gym. We live 15 miles from the beach, and the Navy base where I work is right on the beach. I'm lucky and probably spoiled in that regard. Surf year-round. I've lived within a half hour from the ocean since 1969, and I will not consider living farther away than that. Closer is better. But if I had to live in Richmond or further away from the ocean, I'd probably need to find another activity. I think it would be too frustrating otherwise.
i grew up my whole life about 1.5 hours (give or take) from the water. still managed to surf a solid 80% of any good hurricane/ winter swell that has come through in recent years. managed to live by the ocean a few summers in college which was nice minus the lack of decent waves. tomorrow i actually am packing up my car with my boards and everything i can fit in it and driving across the country to start my new life in Seal Beach CA. i paid my dues not its time to be a bike ride away from the beach.
I live a 15 min bike ride from the beach so idk bro but I know its on one of my tops on the list of heellllllll no's
I have never lived more than 45 mins from the beach. Gotta have that ocean air, or i start to dry out. Couldnt imagine living more than that away. I find it hard enough to live 30 mins away now. I hate every day of where i live now, just a little bit tho, cause the only reason for the hate is i have to drive at least a half hour to good waves right now (summer), during the winter i think its like 15-20 mins away.
Yankee and DP nailed the rewards of the search/intrinsic benefits of the travel/all of the above...I am a little envious of you guys that are right there, but I'd bve afraid I'd never get anything done at all if I could access waves multiple times a week all the time. Fortunately I'm close to da beach(no waves though), so at least I could get brined when I need to. The flip side to all this, just came up in a discussion i was having, I've heard dudes who lived right there say they paddled out less when they did...wait for the tide, wait for the wind to switch, then say f**k it I'll get in tomorrow. I don't see that happening to myself, but to use the parlance of our times, 'ijs'... We are extremely fortunate to have our health and the ability to get in whenever we can. Let us give thanks and praise
Good luck brother. You won't regret it. I think it is good for any surfer, at some point in their life to just do this. It is good for the soul. It changed my whole life. Even if you go back to living inland etc. I think it is a healthy thing to do, to post up, for an extended period of time, and just live the lifestyle that you always dreamed of. You may never go back to the way you were, but if you do, I guarantee you will be happier. Pack as many waves in as many hours and as many days, so when you look back on the decisions you have made, you won't have any regrets. Stoked for you. Work hard, play hard. Don't mess around and come back 6 months from now. Put your all into it.
Entering college, I wanted to be a ski bum. I didn't really surf much at all. I grew up a five minute drive from waves. I went to school three hours away in the mountains. I came home after my freshman year, missing the ocean and craving surf. I surfed as much as possible that summer and that's when my drug switched to surfing. The next three years of living as a ski bum at school were fun, but I always craved surf. I moved back to within ten minutes of swell after college and I refuse to ever be inland again. I'm a surfer now. Skiing just doesn't make me pulsate in the pants now like surfing does.
what happens if you live with waves within walking distance is you get lazy about checking other spots. why go searching when its breaking right out front? Its a hard habit to break especially if time is an issue due to work or whatever. that 1/2 hr drive, bike ride, or walk down the beach eats into your water time. i regularlly surf 2 spots. one is 20 minutes away one is less than 5. the spot 20 minutes away can be the better break but I don't surf it as often as i do the one right out front because its right out front. Gives you forty more minutes of water time before work or the sun sets. I surf the other place only when I have some time off to enjoy it without the obligation/**** i have to do monkey on my back.....like tomorrow.