TS or Hurricane Cristobal?

I caught it shoulder high and drifty kinda windblown chunks late afternoon yesterday, and hit it early this am on the incoming tide, the wind still on it a bit and still drifty and bumpy and dumpy but still fun. My buddy just got back from Palm Beach north end and said it was firing at head high plus and he is 6'4". He said it was pretty clean and lined up, and uncrowded, then 20 people, like they got off a bus paddled out and the tide made it funky. I don't think there will be much left tomorrow, but I'm gonna hit it early again. It was grrrrreat to catch a few after so long. My first one yesterday, my legs were all stiff and I almost kooked it from the start, then I remembered to bend the knees. Duh!

 

Yeah, good call. Ill be doing the 6-8 thing, but 4 oclock should start livening back up some out there.

 

Looks like it's 6-7' at certain spots in Brevard / Volusia right now, and is cleaning up nicely, I gotta think there will be plenty tomorrow and the next day, maybe size will drop some but clean conditions. Praying it lingers through the weekend, I'll take anything I can get, because I can't leave work right now to get on it. This is killing me...

 

Waist high is short board worthy for me. I will be hitting it at low tide and sticking around for the buildup.

 

2 great sessions down. Topsail was already head high-ish/clean-ish for the d.p. and WB just after lunch was a yawn. all closeouts on real shallow sandbars. me and wB just don't get along but i had to give it a shot while i was on that side of town. let's hope tomorrows break is actually breaking... #notsunskipper oh and too the crew that I chatted with from NMB, good on ya for taking the young kid that was with ya on so many hurricane chasing surfaris. ( i shared the lineup with a few of yall at Holden for Arthur). He looked beyond stoked. hope you guys scored

 

Is it just us lazy a$$ Florida surfers, or how about the rest of ya'll. The overwheliming consensus has been "I can't believe how out of shape I am, it's time to start running or skating or something." Unless you've been traveling to Centro or California, the only way to get into surf shape is to surf. No waves all summer = out of breath on the first few drifts. At least 5 different friends, all who surf really well, concur on how sad it feels to run out of gas after only an hour or so. Maybe by Halloween things will shape up. I think we have lots and lots of swell headed our way on the lower East Coast for the next eight months, due to a building El Nino.

 

Glad to hear some of you guys are scoring. I'll be doing my 2.5 excursion before sunrise tomorrow on the Delmarva. Very stoked. Hope everyone cashes in!

 

folly at the pier from 4 pm on was nice..perfect View attachment 12148 chest/shoulder highs...thanks cristobal

 

weird today.

was more like 5 ft at 5 seconds with a goofy northeast cross chop. every 15 minutes a 2 wave set of head high mush monsters would pop up.

 

Delmarva report from around 6 p.m. Surfed all afternoon, it was picking up a bit towards evening. No bombs coming in at all... just fun sized, light onshore conditions.

Why these people are wearing any rubber at all is beyond me. The water was easily mid-upper 70s.

Typical set wave:

 

Hatteras and Frisco were def. a few feet overhead by nightfall, but weird also. Dunno if you guys were already onto surfchex or not, but they have some pretty good free streaming cams. Could help save a drive, or speed one up. http://surfchex.com/hatteras-web-cam.php. No Belmar cam though.

 

Know what you mean. This old man in VB has been feeling it too. I surf year-round and have been getting out quite a bit this summer; but size and rough conditions-wise, it hasn't been all that physically challenging.
Was out Monday thru today so far. Twice today, but sessions this week have been much shorter. Wish I could last an hour. Damned embarrassing. Feel like a Sad Sack surfer. Using a different, smaller board. Getting older has some drawbacks, but I want to make it to 59 next week.

 

IOP was waist to chest. Had some great rides. It was still super drifty.

 

When I was in my 20s I never dreamed I would live this long. My Dad predicted all my friends and I would be dead by 30, so I never made plans to surf waves at this age. House money. It's all house money. Any wave from this point on is the best wave ever! Happy 59 DosXX!

 

Weird man. Surfed early this a.m. and between 3:00-4:30 at folly and it wasn't drifty at all. Killed it on the log.

 

Thanks.
I'll be back out again tomorrow. Looks like conditions may be a bit cleaner - at least in the AM. After tomorrow, it's back to the summer 1-2 ft.

 

Meanwhile, on the west coast... http://ktla.com/2014/08/27/waves-up-to-25-feet-expected-at-the-wedge-in-newport-beach/

That hurricane in the pacific is bringing the juice. Sweet that both coasts are scoring

 

Tend to agree. One of the main reasons I was able to take up surfing two years ago at 57 was that I made it a priority to keep myself in fairly good shape over the years. Plus past accumulated experience being in the ocean (mostly skin diving, body surfing and swimming) certainly helped.
This swell has been a bit of a wake up call though. Surfing the small stuff during the summer, even on a regular basis, doesn't adequately prepare one physically for when conditions occasionally get bigger and rougher - especially when age is not on your side.

 

Can't effin wait until tomorrow. Buoys are looking unreal and wind and weather looking great. Let's hope the inevitably overcrowded lineup is fairly functional. Gonna crush it on the 5'10 tomorrow wapahhhhhhh

 

I wish the sun would hurry up and come up already.