TS or Hurricane Cristobal?

Betty - cristobal (here) was the swell of the year easy.
I AM MOST INTERESTED in picking lottery tickets and horses w/you...

 

well, its gone now.
bits/pieces only left...
wish i could bottle/sell that stuff...
the beach is now littered with the 'missed it yesterday' crew......looking like you might imagine.

 

The beach, very busy yesterday AM, is practically empty now. Maybe 2 guys out there in the chin-knee high chop. Where did they all come from and vanish to? Back into hiding until the next swell? Like all the ghosts and demons in Disney's Fantasia graveyard scene.
I'll be out again this afternoon with the old, high volume ripple catcher, but it was fun this week getting better tuned in on my smaller board.

 

Not even worth paddling out in Surf City this morning....back to work..

 

Bought myself about a week of peace of mind yesterday. I will elaborate on some funny sh!t that went down later.

Much thanks and praise, still in partial sensory overload.

 

Do tell!

 

It's Funny Sh!t Friday bro! Spill the beans.

 

I will my braddahs...just gimme a few to tend some work sh!t. How aboot that left though?

 

scored some good ones in the banks. beach break chocolate barrels i all i have to say. bertha was better IMO but still lots of fun. ****ed my foot up though i think. took a fall of the lip and landed right on my fins. have a big gash on my foot and its pretty damn sore. gonna go to the docs today to have a look

 

They call me Ben the Baptist

Alright fellers, here it is. I swear to God stuff like this always happens to me, idk if it's the Universe testing me or what...

So I'm sitting on the beach taking a break, watching dudes get shacked whilst drinking my gatorade, when I'm approached by this random elderly woman. She says excuse me and proceeds to ask me a question. She asked me to walk her down to the water's edge so she could get her feet wet and cool off. I comply, and tell her we have to be very careful and not end up in the initial trough b/t sandbars.

So hand in hand I go with this woman in front of the whole beach, which is starting to get packed at this point. Once we get close, I'm holding both her hands and we're walking sideways. We get to about ankle deep water, and she's stoked. She also realized how powerful the whitewash was at this point, as the remnants of a wave came in and now we're knee deep. She doesn't want to go any further, but asks me to begin splashing her.

Once again, I comply, and begin to reach down and start splashing my new friend. As I'm splashing, she asks me to splash her face. I ask her to repeat the request just to make sure I heard her correctly, which I did. So now I'm really splashing, reaching down and sending a good amount of water up, and her face is officially splashed.

Out of the corner of my eye I see a set coming in, so I tell her we better wrap this up and start our exit. So we go back in to hand holding mode, and walk out of the water slowly and sideways. By this point my homie on the beach watching it all is laughing hysterically. The woman thanked me, refreshed, and she went on with her day.

So I go back to sitting with my boy, and we're discussing what just happened. He brought up a very good point(imo) when he said that what just happened looked like some ritualistic saltwater baptism, especially with the whole face splashing part. And as funny as it may have looked, I helped that woman experience the ocean that day. And I'm glad I did.

Also saw a hummingbird cruise through the lineup, first time for everything I suppose.

 

Seldom,
That hummingbird was the gift for the nice thing you did.
Good job

 

Thanks man, I was definitely thinking along the same lines.

 

Nice. That whole time I was reading, I was waiting for something terrible or creepy to happen. Glad it ended with a humming bird.

 

I felt kinda creepy the whole time.

 

Keep vibrating on a positive note brother!

 

Good deeds don't go unnoticed, good work Seldom!

 

Thanks doods!

 

in town was looking really fun but if you went further south it was well over head on the sets and bombing on the inside. Never seen shorey that big and thick before. I got the sickest deepest barrel of my life yesterday. I was in barrels so big I was actually pumping the face in the barrel to get out, which I managed to do a few times. Still can't believe it.

And of course 5 hours after dawn patrol on the way home we cruise past a well known spot and there are 50 cars and 100 people on the road. Lingering solid swell was still in the water but these kooks had dry hair and the big heaving bombs from the early morning tide fill were long gone.

Not to mention there were 50 cars parked in a few hundred yard stretch and no other cars for miles... Must've been fellow virginians : )

 

My arms are rubber.

 

My whole body is rubber right now, was out from 8 in the morning til 8 at night with my boy. Found a little spot away from the crowd and was like a miniature skeleton bay. Was awesome to end the day with a sunset view through the barrel (didn't make it out but whatever, still shot the stoke level through the roof). Was def a day for the memory books. Glad everyone else got some too, and Seldom so happy to hear you got to splash and old woman in the face, that must have felt nice.