New guy longboard to shorter board question

Look around for an old video, I think it was Taj Burrow. But he did a demonstration in completely flat water on how to duck dive down like 20 feet in still water. He got an initial push and then pushed each rail down, leaving the board's rail perpendicular to the ocean's surface, then tilting it 180 degrees the other way. Basically a side to side motion, over and over leaving the nose pointing basically at a 45 degree angle towards the ocean floor. It took him a solid 10 seconds, but it was VERY interesting. He said it was a method he learned training with Hawaiians. On the north shore when it's flat in the summers, guys apparently train that way. It basically allows you to start duck diving way early and get down nice and deep before that lip every even comes down. It's not an easy method by any means. Feels awkward, but if it's flat one day, go out and mess with it. It can get your confidence level in big surf WAY up. Cause in my opinion, the worst/scariest part of surfing really big waves is not when you are up and riding, that is the easy part, the sh** part is just being out, navigating the sets, avoiding impending doom when the cleanups come. And if you can master the duck diving on crack, then you have already slayed the dragon really. Worth looking in to. I will poke around and post a link if I can find it.

 

Go buy a bunch of them. Everybody I surf with has a full quiver of at least five boards. Two will be used regularly, two for traveling and one you wish you could surf cuz it's what the rippers use. The last board may not get surfed often but it provides the motivation to push yourself to get better.

 

its good to have a plan for this.
cause "OOHHHHHH SSHHHEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEET!!!!
is not a plan.

 

i noticed these boards at bnw and was wondering how much they go for...?

 

I'm about your age and and weight. I ride longboards and short. For me personally, I don't like short boards that are over 2 1/2" thick and 20" wide. The board will float well but will ride like ****.

I don't know much about newer fish shapes but I have ridden a few funshapes in my time with much success. I'd go that route.

 

I think a big fish would be the way to go, better than a funshape for getting to another level. It will turn lots quicker, and if you can find one 21" to 22" wide it will be stable enough for the transition, just try to find one about 2.66" to 2.75" thick so you can duckdive it.

 

One thing to pay attention to when duckdiving is swell period. On longer period swells, it is necessary to extend your arms for a longer period of time and be patient, before angling toward the surface, or you will be sent backward. On typical east coast chop you can scoop it more. On a big Pacific swell, precision is key. Hit the base hard at a 45 degree angle, extend your arms as far out as possible and count for aboot 5 seconds before aiming up. The first one can be easy, let it hit you on your heel. but it gets harder to maintain precise angles and timing each succeeding wave. In macking 23 footers, I suggest a jet ski assist whenever possible.

 

This is quality info bro. Especially the last part.

 

.kechelesurfboards.com/KECHELE_SURFBOARDS/MODELS.html

Check out the Matt Kechele Pug Performer model. A great hybrid shape with rider friendly performance features too subtle and hi tech for me to explain. But you will feel like a Surf God on one of those in thigh to shoulder high surf (ie: 90% of what you will see here on the East Coast please listen to Bouncing Souls "East Coast Sucks").

 

That looks like a good choice. I wouldn't mind checking one out myself.

 

Dude quit being such a ***** and get a 7,0 26, 7 3/4 I surf mine on the Dailey and I'm not a kook so i don't dive like a duck I fly like a bird over the wave. I gain enough paddle speed and fly off the apoaching wave. Go but a kustom in the dimins I gave you and you will shred harder than the shred machine. You will bust airs like a eagle and get so pitted you might turn into a fish.

 

I see many funboard/hybrid type boards in the 6'8-7'2 range... It would be perfect for the kind of things you wanna do, but pretty difficult to duck dive due to volume, but if thats the kind of thing you want, it seems to be perfect for your situation. DON'T go for the gun/shortboard shape... something a little wider with a bit rounder nose will do the trick, perhaps a fish.

 

One thing thats hard when switching is losing the ability to use your feet to assist you when popping up (because they will be hanging off the ass end of the board). Takes a lot of patience and practice and it is the hardest thing about downsizing IMO.

 

I have a WRV stingray. The board would be a good transition board for someone who is used to riding a longboard.The board is set up as a twin fin rather than a truster just to loosen it up. The only knock I have on it is it doesn't come off the bottom well when its steep but you can pump it down the line.I bought it as a summer crowd fighter cause paddles like a longboard.

 

Just read something that said when duckdiving start by pushing 1 rail down first, then the other. Doing this requires you to only displace 1/2 the amount of water. Sounds like it could make sense. Havent been able to find the vid your talking about. Post it if you can find it.

 

Going shorter is just like anything else in life that someone somewhere deemed hard - people just assume they can't because they heard they can't. Beginners should be on longer boards, but it sounds like you've progressed to intermediate. Unless you want to be a long boarder (not that there's anything wrong with that), try something shorter. Keep an eye on craigslist and what's for sale locally and cheap, and if it doesn't work, either sell it or get better and try it again. Also, I'm a huge fan of the single fin shortboard (or mid length), and the nice thing about a 2+1 is that they're fairly versatile, but they do require a bit more finesse than a quad or a thruster setup. That said, they also make you surf better because you learn to find your speed in the wave rather than by pumping.