This guys great, total kook feast for the forum

I agree with his first three points: The best surfer isn’t the one having the most fun, You’re getting ripped off when you buy surfboards retail, and Our heroes are often assholes.

But I disagree with the last couple: Longboarding is what we do when we don’t feel like trying very hard, Surfing won’t save your soul.

I believe that longboarding has it's place just as much as short boards, I see it as variety, which helps you develop different surfing styles. I find that surfing one helps me get better at the other. I try hard every time i'm out that doesn't change because i'm on a long board that day, i just try and do things that challenge me no matter what. Sounds to me that he's just so jaded as if he's such a good surfer that noseriding a LB isn't fun or even slightly challenging to him. It's not the hardest thing in the world, but when we were all learning i'm sure we all saw that and thought how awesome it would be to do that one day. If you didn't, then i'd say you probably missed the point of surfing.

I believe everybody's reason for surfing is slightly different depending on who you talk to. Nothing wrong with either and one shouldn't be classified a kook because they enjoy the soulful side of surfing. It's when they are the guy who is generally in the way, at the wrong spot at the wrong time more often then not that they need to be labeled that.

I find it (surfing) DOES make me a better person, believe it or not. I'm better physically, spiritually, emotionally, mentally. It's a proven fact that spending time within nature is beneficial for your mind, body and soul. It's been proven that there is a "high" that we as surfers experience when riding a wave, and the bigger or more challenging the wave the more of these "chemicals" get released into your blood stream.

These being healthy chemical which create euphoria, I tend to believe it increases our quality of life. Probably won't live any longer but you'll enjoy the time you've had a lot more. And who knows, maybe when we're dead you'll just live in your head / subconscious forever like a never ending dream. Well since our subconscious records anything and everything then that means you need to surf as much as possible to fill up the memory banks with lots of surfing images and memories so you can relive it all in eternity...

Think about it, If you're broke, getting barreled probably makes you feel a little less broke, not completely and reality does set back in, but you don't mind as much when you've just experienced something so many others won't. If you have a stressful life for whatever reason, surfing has a way of smoothing out those rough waters and in your / my life. It can be incredibly therapeutic, just ask some of the folks on here, or the wounded warriors.

I got his points but I think deep down he probably doesn't feel that way 100% to the core.

 

they are still reading them give them time

 

oh, snap! fran that was the sound of your bra gettin tweaked

 

how did u get that pic of me in Belmar during sandy?

 

I agree with njsurfer. The author doesn't have a clue. What a wanker.
1. Any local shaper would love to get their boards in retail stores. The ones in the stores WERE local shapers.
2. Long boards are cool. even though I don't own one.
3. The best surfer is the one not pissin any body off.
4.What's a surf hero?
5. surfing makes me happy. therefore I'm a better person.

 

most of the time when I surf with a crowd,im noticing the best guys in the lineup are the longboarders and spongers.iv witnessed some herioism from the spongers on days nobody want to go out.i witnessed longboarders taking off on some heavy waves,and seen plenty of people on shortboards that should not be on shortboards.like if u take off on a wave,and its peeling for 50 yards and u do 1 bottom turn then straighten out,or take off when its barreling,and do everything u can to outrun the barrel instead of getting covered up.yea il say maybe they aint the best in the lineup.

I just like the shortboards cause u can move all over the place instead of cruising down the line.u can pretty much do anything u can on a shortboard on a longboard except for airs.to get barreled on a longboard,or do a floater on a 6ft section on a longboard,i say ur the best surfer in the water today

 

I ride a popout surftech longboard, fashion a stink bug stance and have morphed into kook...welcome to reality of aging. Piss and vinegar turns into heartburn and viagra...trolling is the easy part kook.

 

I have some friends that are nose riders. They get invited to contests all over the country. Still these guys can rip on a short board. They are not going to win contests, but surf better than 95% of the people at our local breaks. Nose riding a heavy 9'8" single fin in shoulder high beach breaks at the level these guys do is not as easy as some think.

 

The author of The Inertia has posted a bunch for "kooky" articles .

Yes its always better to Support your local Shaper. Never buy off the Rack boards cause stores do put a huge mark up on them. Most shops will give there long loyal customers a bit of a deal but nothing like going direct to the shaper.

I really dont think the best surfer isn't always having the most fun . It really depends on the mind set of the surfer . I see it a lot people totally change their attitudes once they see someone on the beach with a camera its like someone put a drop of blood in a shark tank. Everyone is trying to get discovered instead of putting forward the work and effort to get discovered and live the dream which is making a living threw surfing. People want something for nothing nowadays .

Yes some of are heroes , were assholes but is was a different way a life back then and the world was changing in front of out eyes. Dora was the biggest piece of **** there was but that was what made him Dora. He didn't hide it he did his thing and said F U to everyone else .

 

Not only are surf heroes a-holes, but so are ‘shocking’ internet surf writers. I’m sick of this kind of ****. Politics, sports, whatever just say anything to piss people off or get a rise. Guys write to generate a response. This guy adopts a cooler than thou, elitist view to appeal to the niche cool guy surfer audience. Eighth graders.

Does anybody care what this guy thinks about having fun, what a butt.

His view of surfboard industry and shop economics are really not relevant where I am. It might in California. Or inland. Like a lot of folks, I rely on shops for info, seeing new types of boards, repairs and supplies when I need them. I have access to more types of boards in a shop than from the local shapers in my area. Shops meet my needs, of course they are entitled to a markup on merchandise to keep their doors open. Mr elite obviously needs you to trust the internet (ahem) and doesn’t need shops, whatever. Get a clue.

Longboards are tools. I'd rather not ride a longboard because I do feel like I’m cheating, and I like the challenge of shorter boards. But in a long period overhead swell I appreciate a little extra beef so I can catch the wave, make the really steep drop, scream down the line and play on huge walls and generally have a blast. Lazy? No smart.

Save my soul? Everybody has their own reason to surf. Mr elite thinks its fun, but why should anybody care what he says, cause its on the internet?

 

Bros, idk what that article was about. I just go and surf. Nothing else...

 

Proper, stylish longboarding is not easy. Getting to the nose may be easy, but you have to make it back to the center of the board for it to count!

Other than that point the dude was right. Oh and Dora. Just because he ripped off kooks who worshipped him to travel and surf the world, I wouldn't call that bein a ****, that's what I call smart.

And only a surfer does know the feeling, try explaining how your barrel made you feel to someone that doesn't surf. They just don't get it.

 

Is swell plotting a takeover of the inertia

 

[QUOTE

Yes its always better to Support your local Shaper. Never buy off the Rack boards cause stores do put a huge mark up on them .[/QUOTE]

this is true if your goal is to attain "B" or "C" grade status as a rider. an "A" grade rider chooses the best
equipment possible basically rendering its source irrelevant.

 

Surfing isn't complicated, thats why I do it.

Id be cool if there were no discussion regarding what makes a kook, no magazines, no forum with strong opinionated dudes that like typing.

To have a discussion regarding what surfing is and isn't is similar to discussing evolution vs creation, there is no right answer and there will always be people acting like a bunch of *****es, making **** complicated.

I found myself going through photos from local photogs the other night, searching to see if someone got any shots of me from this past swell event, I paused and thought wait a second, I could be doing a whole bunch of other **** that will actually improve my surfing experience and it has nothing to do with sitting here wasting time.

Take surfing in whatever ways you want, but dont get hung up being involved in **** that just wastes your time, you words and photos of yourself will never convince anyone of anything.

 

Longboarding: If you live on the East coast, and think longboards aren't useful or needed, then I am guessing you only spend about 2 days per week in the water (sometimes less).

Surf Shops Obsolete: They serve a big purpose in providing rentals for people traveling for surf, and introducing surfers to new/local shapers. They are also handy for last minute accessories.

Surfing for fun: If you aren't having fun, you shouldn't be surfing. If you are better at it, you generally have more fun. However, not everyone can get to the same level and natural talent has a lot to do with it. If some dude is happy just trimming straight down the wave face Roy Stuart style, who am I to tell them they are wrong. The article was a poorly written angry rant, coming from a guy that has been surfing too long and has lost something along the way.

 

This is a very important point. I occasionally surf with guys that have been doing this for 30+ years. None of them have the mentality of this angry person (who I am guessing is much younger and less experienced). My buddies were responsible for getting me out there and learning, and I am thankful for that every day. So, I guess the angry guy may actually grow out of this one day. He at least has that going for him.

 

I surf because I enjoyed it, or at times because I feel compelled to do it. Either way, I like the way it makes me feel. Sure, I want to progress, and at times it feels as if I can't do anything right. But persistence and learning from your mistakes, as well as few pointers from the more experienced, pay off.
Sometimes I challenge myself, sometimes I just take it easy and cruise. I started surfing two years ago at 57. In some respects, starting later in life may have some advantages. I've already done a lot of things - accomplishments and mistakes. Hopefully, I've gained some wisdom along the way - although my wife and my kids may say otherwise. But at this point, I really don't feel the need to "prove" anything to anyone but myself.

 

Most people who really surf have lots of boards. I use my longboard when its real small but looks like kirra, or to help that friend that always says they want to learn.... I tell em no excuses i have a longboard just for someone like you. I also have fun getting mini pits on my daughters pink hello kitty kickboard. Always a good time after a jetty walk. BUT when the waves get hollow and head hi everyone I know who really surfs grabs their shortboards, take off steep and deep, maybe go wapow wapow and get pitted. They old guys that still want keep in a least minimal shape to make sure they dont blow the drops when it matters. Those who cant do this barrel dodge, shoulder hop, and longboard. Why would i feel bad about this. Most guys who blow waves after seeing me get barreled are mad at themselves like f that guy is prob having more fun than me.... And i am.... I earned it... Like someone else said " ive kinda given my life to this". Respect

 

..pics or your a kook.