The Best Session Of Your Life

hasn't happened yet

 

same all my sessions suck

 

I've had single waves make entire sessions, that would otherwise have been a toilet sesh w/o that wave. I guess that's just measuring the stoke level at the time and really in those circumstances I'll reflect in the future on that wave rather than that sesh.

I'd have to say my two best sessions were at the same BB with a headland in Rhodey this summah. One was that sic chest to shoulder and clean Wednesday we had in early July, the other was Cristobal Thursday sesh. I was pretty consistent both days and really taking it to new levels. Lots of rides and lots of speed and my technique and quality of bottom turns had to have been on because I was getting back up the lip vertical on many rides. Basically, I was going wapahhhh on the reg and before that wapahhhh it was pa pa pa hard pumps down the line.

There's a lot of days I've had that were memorable by now, and for different reasons. Overall, these two sessions were high wave count and elevating my surfing by the minute. I was just on - surfing like I oughtta. Shredding at will within my current ability, even if I was about to be inconsistent the next sesh. These are the sessions that you crack a beer in the shower after.

I'm sure I'll transcend these two days in the near future and it goes on and on and on. Then again, I'm "just going out and surfing" lolol

 

Small sesh this summer. The tide changed and waves were just dumping on shore. Very fast and the sunset made it just surreal. I was totally at peace.

 

Some saltwater Buddha shiz right there.

 

Blacks Beach, Thanksgiving Day, 1978. DP'ed it at about 3-4 foot, but within an hour and a half, a solid west swell filled in for spitting A-frames with 8-10 foot faces on the sets under sunny skies and totally slack wind...oily glass. I was still a grom and had never surfed anything that heavy but went for a South Peak set and barely got under the hook during the take-off. Wayyyy behind the curtain from take-off, all the way to the inside section while my best bud watched...says I was in it for at least 8-10 seconds. My first REAL barrel, I still relive that moment to this day.

Then there was this other time at Big Rock....but that's another story.

 

Bro, what a post. Simple, yet painted a vivid image in my dome about your barrell! I'm still waiting for that type of barrell although I've enjoyed some shacks. 36 years ago bro! You were stoked!!

 

There's been so many but last monday's DP sesh might have been the best!

 

ohhmmmmmmm

 

Although it's hard to pick just one. Hurricane Bob summer '91 in OBX. Town evacuated. Curfew in effect. Shrooms on the beach the night before just as the storm was passing over. Dry standup barrels all morning.

2hrs late for work, took one in and backdoored the biggest tube of my life. Felt like I could've driven a vw bug through there. Heard hoots from the beach when I came out. Time stood still so remembering it now seems like I was in there for hours. Stepped off onto the sand, grabbed my board and sprinted through the crowd on the beach access walkway on my way to the work.

The bummer was my boss was surprised I showed up. I could've stayed out all day.

 

too many to pick one, but recently had a day (this past sunday) that will forever remain in the memory bank down in Frisco and Buxton.
Woke up and went up to orange blossom to start the day off right with a bacon egg and cheese three chocolate frosted donuts orange juice and coffee. checked the lighthouse but it was still a little wonky. went down to frisco. pulled up to a random street down there and saw some fun looking 3-4' offshore surf. on it!

paddled out to a peak all to ourselves. within an hour it really cleaned up and started lining up well. another hour later it bumped up to 5-6' with overhead sets and perfect walls of water coming through. ended up surfing the longest session of my life - 6 hours. after three hours my body was aching but i just had to keep paddling back out. i mean it was head high plus with perfect lefts and rights rolling through and just absolutely epic lines rolling in one after another. finally 6 hours later i had to get out and go get a real meal.

went and pounded a chili cheeseburger, fries, chocolate milk gatorade etc. then checked a spot in buxton. ended up surfing another two hours into dark crazy wedging 6-8' throwing scary barrels. it was take off right under the lip and straight into the barrel. no time to get to the bottom and do a bottom turn. pretty much air dropping into heaving pits.

finished the night off sitting around the charcoal grill with a few cold beers on an absolute high. even five days later im still stoked about it. i think the x factor that made this day an A+ was that both spots we surfed at we were completly alone. no crowd, no hassling for waves, no dropping in, just one wave after another to ourselves. magic.

that was a great day of surf.

 

23', no wait, 24.5' mackin Belmar w tubular bells on

 

Probably Brazil last summer. Only complaint was I was with a group and I had to cut it short. Shoulder high, clean. Locals were smiling, I was smiling, had a great time.

 

Night I got engaged. Had to go for the lube after the 4th or 5th session. Pulled some of the greatest moves of my life. Stuff I had only seen in videos. Epic sesh.

 

Just happened a few weeks ago. Ollie's Point in Costa Rica. Boat was me and two other dudes from my hotel who I had been surfing with all week, plus a surf guide. Swell was pumping the last few days, beach break was well overhead, 8-9 feet and powerful. Pulled up to Ollie's in the morning. Approaching it didn't look like much was breaking - but no other boats were there. Pull the boat into the inside and its head high, light offshore peeling point break perfection with NO ONE OUT. Perfect weather and beautiful tropical scenery. The stuff you see in surf vids only. Couldn't wait to jump in the water. Surfed it for 2.5 hours ALL ALONE, just our little boat. HH with OH standouts. Such an easy, playful wave. Caught a legit 15-20 SOLID 2-4 turn waves (and I'm not even that good). Had to stop myself from turning around on the paddle back to catch waves... hard to do when you see so many gems go unridden. That session made my trip. Made my year. ****, it made my entire surf career.

 

Most recent memory would have to be south oceanside about a month ago. Clean chest to head high barrels all morning.

 

For riding waves; '95, Zaneida's left in Santa Terresa CR. 8' glassy faces, long lines and a rip that would put you back in the line up without paddling.

 

Best Spongin Sesh:
Brigantine. Late August, 2012. Full family day at the usual beach with the usual buds. Smallish but clean 1-2' all morning with offshore breeze, just filling a knee-deep shallow right below the high tide line from a previous storm. As the tide rolled in it covered the island of sand separating the shallow from the breakers and began to pump its contents back into the sea with every swell... and the swell was rising as well. By noon the shallow had developed a breach which focused the backwash and the swell was a solid 3-4' and driving. The focused backwash created a double-sided wedge-like break like I've never seen before about 20 yards out... It was peaking at 5-6'+ straight up. same spot. consistently. for about 6 hours. By the time I had 10 waves people who were walking by were stopping cause every wave I was so deep in a gaping barrel right onto sand. Tubed from drop to slide onto sand. The BP were holding up signs scoring my rides. There were a few others gettin shacked but couldn't take the pounding when things didn't go perfect... The beating just added to my enjoyment that day. The BP wouldn't even let people in that area except for the people they knew could handle it. (a few kids got slammed. bad. real bad.)
Countless rides. Earned respect from BP. Showin off to family. 4 phone#'s (3 scored). vivid images of the lip 3' over my head and 4' in front of me. The sound. and the light. Best sesh ever.
And then it was gone.

 

Sick dude. Love ocean anomalies like that.