had an extremely good session on my longboard today. winds backed for like 2 hours, got really glassy and some waist to chest high peelers started rolling through. thought about taking my fish or short board out but im glad i didnt because it was meant for a longboard. had the whole place to myself for two hours until people showed but they just sat back and watched and let me catch all the waves i want. i even got like a block long noseride. must have caught like 30-40 waves with no one there.... i dont care what you guys think of longboards or noseriders but dammit on the right day and conditions, it's the best feeling in the world soul arching on the nose or cheating five and getting covered up. thank you vb for cooperating with me once again. 757
post a pic of your noserider if ya got one. here's mine. shaped by jordan brazie of valeric surfboards
9'7" a slight belly in the tail, reverse rocker, double 6oz glass on top, 6oz on bottom, slight nose concave. U.S blanks classic foam density. So it's a true log. The only way I feel longboards should be.
9'8, 3" thick, 23" wide. The board hauls ass especially with the glassed in fin but the pintail makes it really maneuverable. Volan glass, 50/50 rails, reverse rocker. He based the shape off of one of Joel Tudors modern shapes and put his own twist on it. Got it pretty much brand new for 650
I thought this whole thing was a parody about longboarders and how they see everything in their own little world and he was really just snaking everybody until I realized he was in VB yesterday.
Didn't have a long board, just my old 8 ft Tim Nolte. Quite a few dolphin out there inside and outside of us (all three of us) yesterday around noontime. They were doing a lot of jumping, wave-riding, and feeding on schools of shiny, silver-colored fish that were about 6 in long. One dolphin, about 5 yds away was riding the same wave I was on. Large areas of brown water. Water temps have dropped quite a bit in past week, from 78 to low 70s - about what they were last year at this time. A fair number of people on the beach but not in the water. This was Dam Neck, but I was surprised not more surfers were out. Fun stuff yesterday. Waist to chest high.
hey, everybody was getting waves. there were two good peaks breaking. but seriously, they literally told me to go. i was in the right spot to catch them. they weren't. i don't know how thats wave hogging. there was a girl who couldnt surf (literally couldnt stand up), a kid on paipo riding the way inside, a kid on a beater board, and one other kid on a longboard who also sat on a different peak.
dos, the water was really clean and green yesterday where i was at. and yea i was really surprised more people weren't out
