Did you score?

surf in Monmouth Co NJ on Saturday was the usual closed-out Hurricane Hype, every Tom **** N harry and their brother, crowded-azz nonsense. Saw a few decent barrels ridden, but otherwise it was just ai'ight.

like I have said a number of times before, give me some lined-up, head high, colllllld winter waves any day. bring it. weed the crowds out, because it's gotten just too ridiculous.

 

D... I... C... K

 

DE sucked, moved further south to OCMD. A lot bigger, the lips were pitching fast and the water was shallow and the backwash was crazy. Went further south to Assateague, seemed even bigger than OC. Lips still pitchin fast, but had some fun. On the way home, paddled back out in OC, a lot of big close outs and the backwash seemed like it was getting worse. All day it was pretty much a grab your rail and pray! The weather was awesome and the water was warm. I only wore a spring suit and i was fine all day.

 

Amen!

 

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I'll snap a few once I get there, screen shots and cams make things look better than they are (or worse). Any new englanders around, i'm at jenness.

 

LOL. Thank God someone agrees with me. I know I may come across a bit like a cranky doosher, or a whiney azz b**ch. However, after 25 years of surfing year-round in NJ, I feel a modest sense of entitlement to some quality waves every once-in-a-while at my local breaks...Sans the neo-ripper-bud squads.

 

Had wind-swell surf on Thursday evening and Friday morning in VaBch at the North end. About waist high, clean lines Thursday that were perfect for long boarding and with no crowd. Surfed for about 3 hours. Friday morning was about the same, but every once in a while a chest high wave would pop up. We were thinking they were the prelude to a wonderful swell, but alas it was not to be. Still something to do and managed to stay out for about 4 hours.

Checked the surf cams on Saturday morning and just stayed home. Lots of small closeouts. VaBch missed the bulk of the swell.

Heard from friends that Rodanthe was going off. Didn't have a chance to make it down south.

 

Had a blast from Fri-Sunday. I took the advice of some guys on here. Both wounds on the fingers were wide open and the epxoy fell off both fingers thursday night.

How to surf a hurricane swell with a jacked up paw: Large, waterproof bandages, then cover all edges with crazy glue. When glue dries, attached large, cloth/mesh bandage. Then put finger "cots" on each finger. Surround edges with medical tape. Drive to the beach. Put on 2 Mil top, then one surgical glove over right hand. Duck tape around wrist. Then put on surgical glove #2, and apply another coat of duck tape further up the wrist. Slide the 2 mil sleeve overtop of the edge, put watch on very tightly on the right hand. Then paddle out.

It was a solid hour before someone actually asked me WTF was wrong with my hand. Any time I had to bail, you would just see a glove popping up out of the water before I would re-emerge.

Pain in the arse, but well worth it. ANd most importantly, the hand stayed dry after each session. I only surfer 1-1.5 hour each day which sucked, but I was worried about infection etc. Had to avoid most of the right handers, because I was using my arms a lot in the wave face to control my speed and was worried about inserting the michael jackson hand into the wave face as the "Arm Break Deluxe"

One of the top 2 named storms for us down here, in my opinion. Weather was perfect. Wind was light offshore. Water still in the high 70s. Pretty epic.

And for whatever reason, the long period held up down here this time. Maybe it was the offshore flow the whole time, which we lacked at the peak of the last long period swell, but on Saturday Morning, it was 5ft @ 14 seconds and once the tide filled in a bit, it was pretty much as good as it gets down here.

I have not really seen waves fill in the way they did on this stretch of coast ever. Every left was bending up bowl style. There was a pretty steep drop, but then the angle of the wall was almost pointed toward the beach. It was like after you tucked in under the first section, you would come out almost aimed right into the wave face. Had to make some crazy adjustments, but it setup a second bowl/barrel section on every wave. It was strange, but in a great way.

It maxed out around HH here, with a couple sneaker OHs on Friday, but it was a blast either way.

 

Assateague was humbling on Saturday. Pretty big but with lots of closeouts, which is unusual for AI. Maybe because the tide coming in by the time I got there. Caught a beautiful shoulder at one point and somehow slipped as I transitioned to my feet. That set the tone for whole session. Humbling after being so stoked all summer. But still fun as always!

 

Yeah, AI def had some size. I had some nice rides, but I also got rocked a couple times! The crowds were nice and spread out, too. You are right, still fun!

 

gotta love a 20 mile beach.
did you know virginia and maryland almost went to war over it?

 

Right!
No, I actually did not know that

 

This is funny.
i was asked to go to NJ but i said to myself, " warm weather, weekend swell, west winds. 99% of long island surf will be blown out. every tom **** and harry from NY will be going there. I would hate that if i was from Jersey." i didn't go. i might have if it was a tuesday.

i opted to find a sheltered spot in another direction. it wasn't epic but it was a big and long ride and it was a place i never surfed before but heard you could on a west wind with a good size swell. it also involved a boat in water i never been in so that was cool. i did it solo but was so glad i wasn't the only one there.
awesome adventure to surf a new spot. Haven't had one of those in a while but getting there and back was kind of more fun than the surfing.

 

Friday sucked after work...wind was on it...Saturday after work, head to few oh, sweet...Sunday howling off shores, still a swell, head froze.

For whatever reason, when waves reach the head high or bigger I suck...and I think I finally know why...for whatever reason, I think I have to pump down the line, even big ones, but in reality, no need too...just cruise and hit big carves. I have got to get out of the mind set of pumping when there is juice...no rhythm when iam trying to pump on a big wave.....

 

I am little surprised DE sucked..AI was good if you are willing to roll with it. So nice when that place actually pumps. One of the best days of the year, or recent memory. In the different vein, but right up there with 'that Wednesday' or 'Wednesday from nowhere' in Aug.

 

maybe it's your board too? i hear ya tho...we are graced with so few days that are solid overhead, it's tough getting into the mindset of surfing top to bottom. traveling helps with that a lot. or living in Hawaii...lol.

 

You could always pump then crack a roundhouse cutback when you're too far out of the pocket.

 

Gonzalo set us up perfectly. The other system that fizzled before Gonzalo, Faye(?) gave us some waves mid-week to get rid of the cobwebs. I surfed between Mayport and North Jax Beach this weekend and I don't ever remember getting rides that long. The only other recent swell that I can recall which delivered the same wave quality was the Cinco de Mayo swell last year. They're not the biggest but its def as good as it gets quality wise down here

 

My norm is Indian River Inlet, but it was right on shore and small. Two guys were getting ready to paddle out and I asked them if they really thought it was worth it. The guy said, yeah! He also said, OC was $hit and AI wasn't even worth the drive. I asked where he was from, he said he just drove down from PA. LOL I said, good luck! Between Indian River and OC, it was like night and day!

 

That's funny...OC was good and so was ai...just different type of wave. OC if you really wanna get shacked and ride more vertical...and AI generally a flatter wave...tho there where some pits to be had even on ai at low.