humbled.. and confused

What shape is the 7'10" is it a gun or an egg/funboard?

1. You have to just commit to the drop, you'll get pitched a few times, but you'll make some. Once you get past the initial drop, I find it is easier to surf a big wave than a small one.
2. Wind/tide/bottom/swell size/period/etc. Hatteras is the juiciest I've ridden on the right coast, but my personal experience is limited to LBI, most of Cape May County, NJ, DMV, OBX and Wrightsville.
3. If you want crumbly surf, stick to beaches with gradual slope, not steep beaches.

 

Have to be quick. And a lot of this swell was breaking really fast. When that beach gets just a little bit of size it can be humbling pretty quick. That swell was not easy unless you were pretty well conditioned and have been surfing a lot. I saw a lot of guys get crunched.

 

I consider myself a pretty experienced surfer and this weekend was pretty rough. I took my share of beat downs, nothing too severe, though. The take off can be pretty intimidating and hesitation can be your biggest enemy.

 

Angled take-offs.

 

You have to reeeeealy want it. Charge the drop. Paddle a few strokes down the face and spring to your feet like a ninja. Eat sh*t and repeat until spit out of pit. And yes, Hattaras has much more juice than typical east coast spots. (Except Belmar)

 

yeah, this is pretty much on the money. also helps to have the right board with enough rocker. point and shoot, and take your licks. surf like it's your last day before you have to move to Kansas, or go to jail.

 

bwaaaahahahah kurebeach surf What are you saying you couldnt handle south hick beaches You wouldnt survive up here in Jerz brah. Your a joke and you should stick to surfing waves with those dumb legless kids you surf with.

Owned.

 

sisurfdog is right belmar is where the players who want to surf monsters go in this country heres my advice. Drive straight to the bottom of the wave while being aware of where the lip you are going to use is coming down. Get low and start your bottom turn as soon as you reach the flats to conserve as much speed as possible. Lean into it hard and drive up the wave on your rail. Keep your eyes focused on the pocket of the wave. Where the foam meets the wave face is where you should be aiming. Keep your body weight over your inside rail, and keep that rail turning. Unlike a normal bottom turn to off the top, you are not going to be shifting your weight to your other rail at all. So all you have to do is lean into it and connect with the lip at the right time and place. When you get to the top of the wave you want your board to be past vertical and still turning on rail.

 

This (and your head) are your problems. Even if you're experienced, riding an egg in OH-DOH Hatteras Hurricane Juice is not going to turn out very good. Get some more experience in steeper surf, and add a gun/step up to your quiver.

 

1) practice more and stop sucking seriously, practice and if its fixing to throw, pull in off the bat. Also, try a board under 6'6
2) bottom contours and bathymetry create tubes. if you are a grown man not hunting tubes, why are you surfing? serious question
3) the steepness of the wave has to do with the angle/period and location/tide. same place could have a variety of steepness in the same day

so the guinessbook of work records for longest session cant get tubed? srsly?

 

I think the problem is that you aren't a very good surfer

 

Riding a crumbling wave is not real surfing. Once you ride a solid wall of water and believe me you will know when it happens, then you will have experienced what surfing really is…keep pushing yourself.

 

makeitstop killed you brah...

 

hey kurebeachsurfer,

Appropriate board choice definitely makes a difference.

It's likely that the board your riding has many design elements that aid in catching and riding small mushy waves, but none of those things (boxy rails, low rocker, wide curvy planshape) are good for pulling into big barrels.

However, you do see guys out on longboards even on massive days, but you'll notice that those guys sit way outside and get in super EARLY.. set the rail and hold on tight. You shouldn't expect to make a critical drop on a funboard/egg..

For winter/hurricane surfing talk to a local shaper and try to get something with a pulled in pin tail, and continuous rocker.

For example, I'm 5'9", 175 lbs and I ride a 6'3" pintail single fin in waves head high to as big and hollow as I can paddle into. Most guys probably would advise against the single fin but with the right board they work very well and I'll tell you from my 20yrs surfing, if you're not trying to win any small wave shred fest contests and looking to really get serious about learning to surf well, a proper single fin board is a good place to start.

Challenging yourself in the fall/winter surf season, and getting your ass handed to you is essential east coast surf training and we've all been there. The important thing obviously is to learn from it and keep surfing!

Good luck!

 

I killed your mom's pooswah!

 

dont ever quote me

 

I've never not been humbled by solid east groundswell on Hatteras.