heavy today

Water out the brain cavity is the ballz. Was happening to me last week in SoCal. Feels so good when it runs free out the nose.

 

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yesterday made me wish i was still 18. i.am.so.sore.

 

Same here. There were waves, but it was crap. I don't have all day to search for surf anymore. I got a ton of domestic stuff done yesterday and watched some disappointing football games.

 

I checked the OC cam and it looked crazy. I watched a guy try to get out for about 10 minutes, never made it. So I decided to cut grass one last time and winterize the boat engine. Part of me wishes I would have gone down later in the afternoon and part of me says I made the right choice.

 

I ended my session after about 3.5 - 4 hours straight of battling the drift and 35mph WNW gusts due to my sinus cavity being completely blocked and couldn't breathe out my nose anymore. Got some fun ones though, just had to stay real close to the jetty or else it got out of control. I actually had NSB all to myself for the most part, which is rare. Couple others who tried their hand at it, but they drifted so far down the beach so fast it was like they didn't exist. I stayed in the same spot for the majority of the session once I figured it out and knew where to be. Just had to be patient and not let the drift take me away. Took lots of stamina and patience.

Occasionally it would line up, would paddle my a$$ off, then go blind on the take off eating spray like it's coming from a pressure washer. I saw plenty of rainbows off the back of waves though, which is cool, but ultimately not ideal conditions to say the least. Definitely had to work for every wave I got. Worthy investment of time? It's questionable, but glad to be in the water rather than not.

 

That reminds me of a humorous sinus draining anecdote. In the 80's, I had gotten out of a marriage to Lucifer's sister. Before her I was a mild mannered hippy, who'd let negative vibes pour off his back like soothing ocean water. Afterwards, I was apizzed off azzhole with zero tolerance to everything.
I was invited to a dinner at the parents of a blond "beach bunny", who ended up as my baby's muhmuh.
I resented going because that was the 1st step to commitment. So I surfed til dark to get my soul right, smoke a fatty to get my mind right, then went right over. We sat as soon as I got there and the dad say just to grab what you want. I stood up and reached across the table for the meat. Doing so, my sinuses opened over the salad with a gush. ooops!

 

Eh, it was worth it. But you did not miss much. Few good ones, the hardest thing was walking back at 5pm after drifting for a while. My feet were frozen, it was downright hard to walk. If it was winter water temps, this would have been hardly worth it...just hammered too much by the wind. Walking back I was squinting from sand spray in my eyes.
But, you know, it was awesome rad bro, super fun, and all that s@#t...

 

It sucks getting old .......

 

It def looked like it cleaned up later in the afternoon / evening. I kind of regret not going, now. LOL Oh well, there is always next time.

 

wish I would have went to this spot yesterday:



ended up in OC and got some good ones. A lot of blind take offs and constant paddling against the drift to stay in position. worth it though since I dropped my one board off at surfers supplies for some much needed tlc

 

Dudez yesterday was not epic by any means! But if you were in the right place during the right tide you would have scored! Some of youz come on here and ***** about how ****ty it was. How aboutz the flat spell before sunday! Did youz like that better! Maybe if some of you "CORE" dudes left The Irish Riviera you might not be so salty.
LBI was perfect at around high tide 4-6 breaking right off the sand the drift was heavy but I just walked back to the peak I had all to myself after every wave. It was alot of work but regardless it satisfied my addiction for the time being....Youz guys should try living on positive vibes! Drugs help...

 

That's why I like the spot pictured. It's a super easy initial paddle out, get a long left all the way in, do a quick walk around and repeat over and over again. Yesterday in ocean city had a couple frustrating paddle outs and just tried to find some shelter from the drift behind some jetties. Kinda sorta worked but not really lol. By the end of the day I was just being lazy and drifted from one peak to the next

 

We didnt get much this weekend. Yesterday was okay. But the weather down here was in the damn 40s on Saturday with 30+MPH wind. It felt like the coldest winter days down here. The water clocked in at 73 yesterday, but I was cold with a 2 mil top on. Air maxed out at like 64. Its almost wetsuite time. Ugh.

 

you told this once already oldtimer..... but the aforementioned female had the phrase 'hussie I was sodomizing' as the descriptor

 

it's that conveyor belt paddle that really burned me out.

 

+1 hahahaha

 

Bro we don't feel bad for you when your water is still well into the 70s lol It does go under the "heavy" listing.

This story is excellent bro but you told it to us a couple weeks ago

 

whats wrong with a little drift?there were peaks everywhere yesterday,u didn't have to do the run around,just let the drift take u to the next peak and continue.try paddling out when its 50mph nw winds on a south swell