this might fall in the confessions, but I am thinking 2x about tomorrow just went for a bike ride before dark and it is so stinking cold and windy, and side shore and not very big (4-8 ft faces? no one out hard to tell), but not shaped well, its going to have shape up for me to wan any part of it tomorrow I have had some days at OCNJ's favorite big left that just blew my doors off, worth paddling out, getting 2 waves, drifting, getting out, paddling out, getting two, drifting.....etc etc etc
Ed Zachary MIS. Had a busy day of work but the itch to get out there as well as flexibility to do so if I chose. Air temp was 21F for a high. No thanks. Not when it's messy and undefined and going to be much, much better on Weds/Thurs. Doesn't mean I don't love it. Just that I had adult responsibilities and the cold juice wasn't worth the squeeze into the 5/4.
I don't know what to be honest about..what I think will be going tomorrow where I am, is solid N wind ripping with victory conditions. SOOO...would I paddle into solid swell at victory conditions in winter weather, in hopes of finding a line to drop into?...Why?...Probably not. It may have some offshore before dark. Better question would be would you paddle into DOH on North Shore now..this here will be a beat down at first. But hey, it is either that or 35mph offshore next day. I donno why I keep thinking that the waves will be smaller and the wind stronger. Hopefully I am wrong...
What he said. It's all private, true pain & subsequent success always is, but that's that really counts.
hahahah yea brahhhhh ill watch you spit game on an internet forum you must feel like a baller to bad they don't have a dieing of laughing face on here
No way the biggest I'll surf is head high which is like overhead for me because I'm only 5'2 hahah, I respect myself to not paddle out tomo
Be honest...why the hell would you charge on Tuesday in 12ft swell at 30mph winds when it will be 7-9ft a day later with straight glass? Rest up then get stoked.
^^^ Word. We had a long flat spell here last summer. When it finally DID pick up, I charged out about 1/2 day too soon. Wasn't DOH, maybe chest, but way too much wind, waves goin sideways, etc. Current actually blew me though the Pier. That was the day I broke the ol' chest bone. Missed 2 months surfin after that. It was glass the next day, as I watched from the shore. Patience, grasshopper.
To its their own dude. Look at the bright side... If you too go out a day early, and get thumped, maybe you can also get a term in the SI glossary, like chest boning, in your honor. I get royalties.
