My all time favorite surf pic

My lil one made a painting outta that pic.

 

At the shapers place I stayed at in Argentina, this photo was on the wall- if you look closely you can see someone in the pocket on a big, beautiful day. Look at the amount of face on that thing...

This break was a 5 minute walk away, down a dirt road of horses, dogs, and owls.

 

And here we are, all a bit shook about OH/DOH swell rolling thru this week lol.

Meanwhile in teahupoo.

 

1. Summer of 1993, Reef Girl Butt Photo. Where is she now?

2. Anything related to Cyclops. Its the most aesthetically entertaining wave I have ever laid eyes on. I wouldn't even attempt to sponge it on it's smallest day without a team of divers and shark protectors (that should be a job), as that reef cuts ppl up.



3. Old New England/Maritime Sea Captain paintings with oceanic chaos and some dudes silhouette in the background. A friend had one on the wall of his parent's house in high school, and I bonded with it over two Jerry Garcia ltd editions. The waves were breaking.

 

Here is mine. Black Friday 2012. C.H. Lighthouse. The best and heaviest east coast surf I've ever seen in 32 years of surfing.

 

That is awesome.

 

Yeah, I'm a big Gerry Lopez fan, but this pic is defining. You can feel the moment.

 

Dude if you like that painting, you gotta see this collection of maritime stuff from this dude I know. He inherited a bit, got really into it, now the cape cod museum for the maritime stuff actually does displays of his collection (it's more comprehensive than theirs). Tons of stuff, but his specialty is scrimshaw. He's managed to get himself to a level that he's sort of a 'go-to' guy for dating and authentication. I think he's got the 3rd largest collection in the world. He's got an old post and beam monster barn looking thing, all temp and environmentally controlled, dedicated to this stuffs preservation. Stuff from all over the world. The scrimshaw is unreal though. Explained the whole thing to me, goes all over the place to scoop this stuff up. It's amazing the $$ that this stuff goes for.

 

I was there that day. Very humbling day coming to realize I'm getting too old for this sheet. What a surf trip though.....7 consecutive days of overhead+ surf with offshore winds. Black Friday was the biggest gnarliest day.

 

As far as east coast pics- this pic of Belmar NJ had to be the best!

 

This picture is epic!

 

I've surfed a lot of epic days here in NJ over the past 32 years and have never seen anything remotely close to what I saw this day in Hatteras.

 

Here is another pretty epic photo from the same photographer on that day.

 

w0w thats insane

 

That's **** your pants heavy Hatteras for those with skills and fitness levels surpassing my own.

 

CJsurf were you out that day? I've seen that pic elsewhere and was obviously highly impressed.

 

somehow I think looking up at the lip isn't the right thing to be doing in that moment

 

We mostly surfed down in Hatteras Village and Frisco that trip where it was more manageable for us mere mortals. Surfed Frisco Pier that day where it was still way overhead. Paddled out at lighthouse the day before and was happy to get back to the beach with all my limbs in tact as it was nearly as big and dumping in waist deep water. Not going to kid you, when we showed up at lighthouse that day a guy who had just broken his leg was being pulled from the water. After seeing that I wanted no parts of it and watched from the beach. Here is one of my own pictures from that day.