Just drink a pot of coffee, you'll get the same rush. It just won't last as long, and you won't have a burning desire to carry an AK-47 and randomly rip people off.
I've heard you have to paddle out like a half hour to get to the line up. i would charge those if i got dropped off like a little b!tch next to the peak
Man I support the dream, it would be cool to be in position and just get that one stoke ride. Btw I can't hardly handle clean head high waves. Every time I get a chest high wave and manage a nice turn I believe I'm awesome so that's all I got to say about that.
a half hour paddle on a board that size isn't that bad. however, a half hour paddle while trying to wrap your mind around the idea of dropping into a wave the size of a 3 story building while not psyching yourself out is another story.
Do it High On Life. Do it! Don't let the haters tell you that you cant paddle out to one of the worlds most formidable waves and just kill it. How is history class today? You getting fired up to move on to high school?
SHHHH we musn't speak of these things otherwise the folks from STRONG ISLAND and jerz might make the trip northwards to catch something other than shorebreak.
before some dude raped him in jerzy and he killed him and now is in jail for life. http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/art...lf-inflicted-wounds-suicide-attempt-jail.html