Bet it has something to do with being just a little bit jelly. Or could even be super.... duper....wobbly jelly.
Dude that's the perfect longboard wave If you think longboards are reserved for 2-3 ft days... Your wrong. Some of the best longboarding I have had where one waves like that's Thanks for sharing
that looked super fun! real nice faded bottom turn at 3:53...& how about that floater/bash at 2:55? like others have said, a perfect wave for that kind of surfing. i personally would've been happier on a Lis fish or an egg, but i'd be happy giving it a whirl on one of those boards all the same. the funny thing is, i know guys who are hpsb purists who don't surf that well, who can't crank turns like that, let alone surf that well on a heavy single fin log in head high surf!
That looks like fun, would love to take my HPLB out in that. It turns on a dime and all that good stuff
legit and the water looked warm. some of my best surf sessions came from days out on a log with waves looking like that. good times
give 'em time. theoretically one can improve at surfing ones' entire life. its a diet and exercise thing.
Nah its more of how much ya can bench whilst banging Hindus and fighting SI HOTY scourge in one-on-one hand to hand combat. Ya dig?
Nice Video ! Good Display of Hot Dogging and Nose Riding. Late 50's to Mid 60's (pre Shortboard Revolution ) Thats how everyone road a log