who here has been surfing this week?

#belmar

 

Chest to head with some bigger sets rolling through... I got out, got creamed, drifted 4 blocks. walked up the beach paddled out, went over the falls, ragdolled, held down came in and drank beers and watched some great surfers tear it up. "A man's got to know his limitations."

 

i'm off for mlk day tomorrow and there's gonna be waves!!



SHOUTOUT TO MARTIN LUTHER KING JR

 

A little bigger than I expected this evening. It was nice to be able to walk to an empty jetty without worrying about hypothermia on the walk back.

 

Had a great session today. Super long rights at the VB jetty with hardly anyone out early. Haven't seen it break like that in a long time.

 

Two sessions this afternoon. 1 - 2:30 in practically empty (probably due to cracks of thunder and visible lightning around the time I paddled out chasing a few away) chest high waves, clean, a-framing. Got some really fun lefts and rights. Tide filled in, drove up the beach to a spot that can take a higher tide, and it was solid shoulder high and pumping. Second session of about an hour. Great day. Looking forward to DP.

New Xcel 5mm. Drylock round toe boots were very warm.

 

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Waves wacky at pkg lots today. Coming in big, then flattening out, them jacking n dumping, picked of 3 bombs, got humbled by two outside sets, great day to be in pr...

 

I booked my hotel early last week and crossed my fingers for good conditions. The SI forecast for Saturday was calling for Chest High and bumpy / choppy with 15-18mph ENE winds but I had a feeling it wasn't going to be that bad. I checked my weather app, SL, and a couple other places and everybody was in disagreement on the wind. I went with my gut and believed in weather.com as they have the wind dialed in it seems.

Saturday morning DP turned out to be better than expected even with an early high tide, wind was only 5-6 mph out of the WNW / NW which at certain spots is offshore for the most part. The swell was a little funky and not quit lining up the way i would have liked and it had a bit of a N to S drift, but easy to stay in the same area for the most part.

The peak was a bit shifty though and required a little bit of luck mixed with good instincts. I figured I would take my HPLB out for a spin to compensate for the high tide and being a bit deep. With enough patience a solid Chest - Head set would roll through and would get a nice long ride. Some required a late take off to get in but after take off it jacked up and presented a decent wall that could be worked all the way to the inside before closing out in 2ft of water. I was all by myself for the 1st couple hours as the sun was rising. Once the tide started making it's way back out a couple others showed up but we kept our distance (thanks guys).
After a 4 hour DP session, there were still some really fun waves breaking on the outside bar once the tide dropped out. I caught as many as I could before breakfast / lunch time and then went to grab a bite to eat and take my wife shopping.

Afterwards I checked to see if the wind had destroyed it (as forecasted) and low and behold the wind chilled out and stayed rather light for the most part allowing for an afternoon session at my favorite low tide spot. I went out for another 2.5hrs until it began to get a little too deep again. This time I took out my SB since it was looking a bit more peaky / punchy. Made several late drops after taking off under the lip, pumped to beat the sections and finished by getting a nice long ride all the way in. The sets still had some decent size on it but it was getting kind of inconsistent as the day went on. There were a bunch more people in the water so after 6.5hrs of surf that day and having to wait around for a good one I decided to call it a day so i could save a little gas in the tank for Sunday morning, which is what looked to be the best time anyways.

Sunday DP was a great session. Woke up with hopeful anticipation for a chest+ glassy day and it was exactly that. I started off at a spot a little further North while the tide was still deep and caught a handful of punchy waist - chest sets. The water was a gorgeous blue / green, nice and calm water, not much of a bump, light offshores grooming the waves just right. As the morning went on the offshores increased and was knocking them down a little.

After two hours of being patient and waiting for the sets I decided I would head back down to my low tide spot. Good move, it was easily a foot maybe two bigger on the sets with more punch and longer more rippable walls. It was a little inconsistent at times and had to wait for the good ones to roll through but when they did it was really fun.

It got sorta crowded at one point and conditions slowly started to decline as it got closer to lunch. I distinctly remember taking off under the lip on a few and grabbing rail as I was dropping in backside and got some shade, not a lot, but enough to remember

 

Took a long... really long... kinda too long... "lunch break" today and had a great time. Checked a couple spots north and it was smaller than I knew it would be down south, so I went to a spot I don't normally surf. I don't go there because there's a pretty dedicated SUP crew that calls it home, and on most days the wave suits the stand-up guys and beginners well. As luck would have it, two SUP guys were pulling out of the lot when I pulled in, and there were only 3 other guys in the water.

The tide was pretty low, the wind was offshore out of the WNW, and the sets were coming in at about shoulder high, with an occasional bigger peak, but mostly it was in the belly to chest high range. The good thing was that the wind was at just the right angle to the incoming south swell that every wave was a little barrel you could stuff yourself into... sometimes getting 2 little cover-ups in a wave. I was on a fish, so I was doing everything I could to slow down to stay in the pocket... big slow bottom turns out onto the flats, timing it to tuck under the lip... hooking a top turn right in the pocket to scrub off speed, then letting the curtain fall right over your head... tail stalling and dragging my arm in the face of the wave... So much fun just playing with these little tubes...

Then... back to the office with water in my ears.

 

Good stuff man, glad you scored some

 

This morning was perfect.

Hope you guys got out!

It seemed like every jetty around here was peeling- all rights.

Surfed the presidental suite this morning- fun times - only one out for a while!

 

Yesterday morning was offshore and waist to chest high peelers. Nice long lefts on the longboard. The only place really breaking was the Juno Pier, and only at the peak on the south side. It was a fairly mellow crew for a Sunday, and everyone got lots of waves. Then...I can't make this up...some guy on a SUP, paddles out followed by his 7 year old daughter on her shortboard. He drops her off at the peak and goes about his business of hogging waves, while we try to avoid running over his spawn as she bobbed in the impact zone. It was lots of fun, and as always, entertaining at the Pier.

 

I haven't paddle out since thanksgiving day I've never been away from the ocean this long weather it's been work or the kids it's always something so I just ordered a custom board FOR I WILL SURF AGAIN!

 

Got out yesterday and this afternoon... not to cold.. couple fun ones out there. Leftovers tmr? Stay tuned..

 

Got out again before dark- it was great! Much like LBcrew- I was doing everything I could to try to slow down... Perfectly peeling!!

Hopefully we get some more waves like that!! Gotta love the south swell in winter!

 

Got out before dark. It was too small. One gem came through and I was slotted.

Waited all session for this.

Pumped once.

Got snaked.

Got changed and went home.

 

i paddled out today. it was just my two friends and i so we shared waves

it wasn't as gnarly as i wanted it to be, but waves are waves

got a dank wawa sub after my sesh. twas delicious