Long shot, lost my 7mm enduro's (billabong) and my booties yesterday at the wall. Don't ask how it happened, long session, tired, had to sprint once I realized what time it was. Almost positive they were on the ground right next to my car when I took off. Anyone up there yesterday that may have seen them? Parked right next to third entrance. Super long shot. Like hail mary pass.
No sign of le gear. Managed to get a smoking deal on some new shtuff before heading out to le jenness. Managed to snag a free lesson of sorts too, which was clutch. Dude instructs out of a local shop up here (CR), pointed out basically everything I was doing wrong, gave me a solution to all of them. Two hours later and I'm not the same surfer I was yesterday. Well worth the loss of the swimmies and the polka-dot onesie suite. All in all not a bad day. 30 degrees, 13 windchill, 24mph (that was kinda chilly). Hope ya'll scored, and I hope the dude that found my swimmies and onesie enjoy. The swimmies were big bucks, blef model, 3D printed and blessed by gnome gods for optimal flotation and hydrodynamic efficiency. They're made of cocobolo wood, split by the hammer of thor and carved by the dong of zeus.
Well, for one, I was going full beast mode the minute I started paddling into a wave. Wasn't having trouble catching waves, but I was running on empty WAY before everyone else. Couldn't figure it out for the longest time, I workout, I eat right, why the f*** am I absolutely toast 2 hours into the session like clockwork. Well apparently (and this wouldn't be an issue from the getgo if I took a lesson) you don't do that, you start steady and go balls to the wall once the tail starts to pop. Total news to me. I've been trying to match speed the minute I decided that I'm going to get this wave, well that was stupid. Wave positioning. I thought I knew. I didn't. Not even close. Videos and chatting with people doesn't do a damn thing. Dude showed me where to be, when to get there, direction, correctly identifying and 'predicting' spots to concentrate on, etc. Board position. This may sound absolutely rudimentary, but he showed me a better position to paddle from. It's not that I was doing it wrong per-sey, as it was working, but I was making the speed of my popup not what it could be inadvertently because of where I was on the board. Shifted up a bit (I've been keeping my toes completely on the tail), money. Basically, I unlearned some bad habits I formed from learning via trial and error. Clutch that this dude went out of his way to help me out.
brah there is surf shape and then good shape you can be buff as every and a great runner but surfing works your body in a completely different way.
